The Memoirs of Charles-Lewis, Baron de Pollnitz, Volume I / Being the Observations He Made in His Late Travels from Prussia thro' Germany, Italy, France, Flanders, Holland, England, &C. in Letters to His Friend. Discovering Not Only the Present State of the Chief Cities and Towns; but the Characters of the Principal Persons at the Several Courts.

by Freiherr von Karl Ludwig Pöllnitz

LETTER XXVII.

SIR,Ronciglione, May 30, 1730.

As it appears by all the Letters from Rome that they are on the point of chusing a new Pope, I set out sooner from Venice than I should otherways have done, and came post to this City without stopping much by the Way. I pass'd thro' Padua, where I had the Honour to pay my Respects to the Prince Emanuel of Portugal, who is come to reside there for some time, and I was afterwards at the Comedy, which was indeed, a most wretched Performance, but the Assembly was gay and numerous: Among the rest there were a great number of Students and young Fellows, particularly one that made a very finical Appearance, who had ten or twelve Patches on his Face, a red Coat embroider'd with black Gawse, a Hat, a Shoulder-Knot, Stockings, &c. the whole trimm'd with Gawse. I took him at first for a Mountebank, but I plainly saw that the Whimsicalness of his Dress was the Humour of the Country. What gave me some Amusement was, to see a Hare which Harlequin had taught to play Tricks, to tumble Top over Tail, to leap over a Stick, and to beat a Drum with his two Fore-feet.

From Padua I went to Ferrara a City in the Ecclesiastical State, where the Pope keeps a Legat who is always a Cardinal. It appear'd to me to be a large City with spacious Streets, and some fine Palaces, but it did not seem to be very populous, which is ascrib'd to the bad Air in this Country, otherwise one of the finest in all Italy.

The Road from Ferrara to Bologna is extremely level, and as good and agreeable in Summer as 'tis unpassable in Winter. Bologna is the second City in the Ecclesiastical State, and is a large fine Town. 'Tis in a most charming Situation, all the Country round it being properly a Garden, and one of the most fruitful and fairest Plats in Nature. 'Tis said this City contains near 80000 Inhabitants. The common People are civil and well bred, and none more polite to Foreigners than the Noblemen. There are stately Palaces here, of which I will only mention that of the Marquis Rinucci, because to me it seem'd to be one of the most considerable in the City. 'Tis very magnificent, and of a vast extent. The Ground-Floor contains three large Apartments, the first Story five, and the second as many. The Stair-case of this Palace is very much esteem'd for its Contrivance. In one of the Halls are two large Pictures: The first is the Consecration of the Emperor Charles V. perform'd by the Pope at Bologna: The second represents Frederic IV. King of Denmark giving Audience to the Senate of Bologna: and their complimenting him on his Arrival. In another of those Halls are two other curious large Pictures; the one of Cardinal Rinucci, having Audience of the King of Poland when he was sent to him as Nuncio; and the second shews the same Cardinal receiving the Cap from Lewis XIV. King of France, at whose Court he was Nuncio when he was promoted to the Purple. The Apartments adjoining to these Halls are also

adorn'd with excellent Paintings and very richly furnish'd.

The Churches of Bologna are not less magnificent than the finest Churches in Italy. I thought that of St. Paul the most worthy of Remark, which is serv'd by Bernardine Fryars. The Roof is adorn'd with Paintings representing the History of St. Paul. These Pictures which are highly esteem'd are the Performances of Antonio Caccioli and Rolli two Natives of Bologna, and they have both out-done themselves. The Painting of the Dome where St. Paul is represented on his Knees ready to have his Head struck off is admirably fine. The high Altar is of Marble of various Colours, finish'd with a great deal of Art. The Seats of the Monks are of Wallnut-Tree, and over them are several Pictures of the Life of St. Paul drawn by an able Hand, who was Carache's Pupil. The Churches of St. Catherine of Bologna, and St. Michael in Bosco are well worth the Traveller's Observation, on account of the choice Pictures with which they are adorn'd. St. Michael's in Bosco stands upon an Eminence three Miles from Bologna, to which there's an Entrance thro' a cover'd Gallery made like a Piazza. 'Twas a Work erected by the Citizens of Bologna, out of their Devotion to a miraculous Image of the Holy Virgin which is reverenc'd in this Church.

The Legate's Palace is very ancient, but grand and magnificent. 'Tis as strictly guarded during the Vacancy of the Holy See as if the Enemy were at the Gates of the City. All the Avenues to it are hung with Chains: The Swiss Guards are arm'd with Cuirasses: The Guard which consists of fifty Soldiers is barricaded with Pallisades and Chevaux de Frise, and the Palace-Gate is defended by eight Pieces of Cannon.