LETTER V.
SIR,Dresden, August 30, 1729.
From Blanckenbourg we have till'd Lands, and fruitful Fields; with Woods of Oak interspers'd all the way, till we come to Magdebourg, the Capital of a Dutchy of that Name, formerly an Archbishoprick, but secularised at the Treaty of Westphalia, in favour of the House of Brandenbourg, to whom that Dutchy was yielded in exchange for their resigning Hither Pomerania to Sweden. This City has for these two
Centuries past, suffer'd very much. It was besieg'd by the Emperor Charles V. who squeez'd considerable Sums from it. But it fared worse in that unhappy War which divided Germany during the space of 30 Years; for the Counts de Tilly and Papenheim commanding the Imperial Army in 1631, took it by Storm, put the Inhabitants to the Sword, and reduc'd the whole City almost to Ashes. Nevertheless, 'tis since pretty well recover'd, and has some fine Houses. The great Square before the King's Palace has few equal to it for its Extent, and for the fine Houses that encompass it, which are all uniform, three Stories high, and were all raised in this Reign. In this same Square there's an Arsenal, which really is not so magnificent as that of Berlin, but may be rank'd among the chief Arsenals in Europe. This is a populous Town, and has a more flourishing Trade than any other City in the King of Prussia's Dominions.
The great Church, which was formerly the Metropolitan, is ancient, and one of the largest and most magnificent Buildings in Germany. It has still some Reliques to shew, particularly the Basin in which Pilate washed his Hands, after having pass'd Sentence of Death upon our Saviour; the Lanthorn[49] which Judas made use of when he went to apprehend him; a Thorn of the Crown that was planted on his Head: and things of the like kind.
The Chapter of Magdebourg is still, bating the change of Religion, on the same footing as before the Reformation. The Canons must all make Proof of their Nobility; tho' 'tis a Punctilio with which the King, who confers all the Prebends and Dignities of the Chapter, sometimes dispenses. The present
Provost is the Duke of Saxe-Barbi, who succeeded his Father in that Dignity, which brings him in 12000 Crowns a-year. He lives in a fine House on the great Square, fronting the Palace, built by the Order of King Frederic I. who also caus'd a Citadel to be erected here, on the other side of the Elbe, over which there is a Bridge. That King began likewise to fortify the Town; and King Frederic-William, who carried on, and finish'd the Fortifications, has now made Magdebourg one of the most important Places in Europe. M. de Walrave, Chief Engineer, had the Direction of those Works, which are a Proof of his great Ability.
The Margrave Albert of Brandenbourg[50], Brother to the late King Frederic I. is Governour of the Dutchy of Magdebourg; as is the Prince of Anhalt-Dessau of the Town, where he has a numerous Garrison under his command. The Arsenal, which is a fine Structure, and full of Cannon, and small Arms, is worth seeing.
The King of Prussia having it much at heart to render Magdebourg a flourishing Town, has transferr'd the Regency of the Dutchy hither, which was heretofore at Halle; and for this reason there are several good Houses in the Town. The Dutchy of Magdebourg is one of the best Provinces in the Prussian Dominions. It has a great Income from the Elbe, and the Salt-Works. The Catholicks are allowed a Toleration of their Religion in the Dutchy, and have Churches in the Town.
The Roads from Magdebourg to Leipsic, are so bad at this time, by reason of the Rains that have fallen for some Days past, that I have been three Days in getting from the one Town to the other. Indeed I went some Leagues out of my way, on purpose to see Barbi and Cohten. The first of these Towns belongs to a Prince of the House of