Saxony, of the Branch of Weissenfeld; and has nothing considerable but the Prince's Palace, which makes a good appearance, and has commodious Apartments, elegantly furnished. There is a Salon, and a Closet, the Cielings of which are painted by Peine, and not the worst things he has done. The Palace has Gardens delightfully situate by the side of the Elbe. The Duke de Barbi is the only Prince of the House of Saxony who professes the Calvinist Religion, in which he was educated by his Father, who was at first a Lutheran. This Prince is a comely handsome young Man. He married N—— de Wirtemberg-Oels[51], but has no Children. He has been in the Service of Prussia, and is Grand Provost of the Chapter of Magdebourg, and Knight of the Order of the White Eagle of Poland.
Cohten, which is bigger than Barbi by one half, belongs to a Prince of Anhalt[52]; the only one of his Branch, tho' he has had two Wives. I desired leave to kiss his Hand; but he excused himself by pretending an Indisposition. I have observed that petty Princes are always more difficult of Access than great ones. The Town has no Fortifications; and I walk'd about a good while to see if there was any thing remarkable, but 'twas to no purpose; and I was oblig'd to confine myself to my Inn, which was one of the worst in Europe.
Leipsic stands in a fruitful Plain. This City, so famous for its Fairs, and for its University, may
justly pass for the Jewel of the Electorate of Saxony; not only for the Beauty of its Structures, but for the considerable Revenue which it yields to its Sovereign, the King of Poland. 'Tis small, and fac'd with Ramparts, and a Ditch; but all these Fortifications are of little consequence. Its Castle, or rather Citadel, which joins to the Town, is a Place of greater Importance. There is always a good Garrison and Governour in it, who is at present General Baumgarten. As the Castle passes under the Denomination of the King's House, the Roman Catholicks have had a Chapel there ever since Augustus II. embraced their Religion.
The Suburbs of Leipsic are very large. The City has four Gates newly built of Free-Stone, which are magnificent, tho' not according to the Rules of Architecture.
At each Gate they have newly set up a Mile-Post, such as the Romans had formerly. There are the like Posts at the Gates of all the Towns, and even at the Villages in the Electorate of Saxony. From hence they count the Leagues, which are divided at the end of every Quarter of a Mile, by other Posts not so big, upon all the great Roads, shewing the Distances of the Places, and of the chief Towns; which is a mighty Convenience to Travellers, who were heretofore often impos'd upon by the Post-Masters, as to the Length of the Roads.
The Houses of Leipsic are large, very high, and substantially built of Free-Stone; and their being adorn'd with great fine Windows helps to set them off to the Eye. The Ground-Floors of most of the Houses are Warehouses, in which the foreign Merchants store the Goods they sell at the Fairs, which are three in number every Year, viz. at New-Year's-day, Easter, and Michaelmass. The Concourse of Foreigners here at the Fair-Season, is so great that 'tis often a hard matter to get a
Lodging here for Love or Money. I myself saw in 1709, at the New-year's Fair, the late King of Prussia, the King and Queen of Poland, and 44 Princes or Princesses of Sovereign Families. The two Kings and the Queen lodged at the House of Appel, a Merchant; where the King of Poland always resides when he comes to Leipsic.
The University, formerly so famous, is very much decay'd: That of Halle, its Neighbour, and its Rival, in the King of Prussia's Dominions, takes away a great many Students from it. They say that for some time past there have been more able Professors at Halle, where besides 'tis much cheaper living than at Leipsic; and where the Students are not such Spendthrifts, nor so much addicted to Expence and Gallantry.
The Gardens of Messieurs Appel and Pose, Merchants, in the Suburbs, are worth seeing. The first is large and magnificent: In the second are very uncommon Plants, cultivated with very great Care. The Gardeners of Leipsic, who are reckon'd the best in all Germany, value themselves upon forcing Nature; so that I have seen here, at Easter Fair, the Fruits, Flowers, and Pulse, of all the Seasons. The Asparagus here is delicious, and extraordinary large. Another Nicety at Leipsic, is its Larks, which are sent over all Germany; nay, to Poland, Holland and Denmark. I was assured, but I will not vouch for the Truth of it, that the very Custom-Duty paid for Larks at Leipsic, amounted to 12000 Crowns a-year; which Sum I thought the more considerable, because I think I have heard it said, that 60 Larks pay but a Grosh[53] the Duty; judge then how many there must be to make up the Sum of 12000 Crowns. But be it true or false, 'tis certain that there is not a Country in the World where these Birds are taken in such quantities; for,