from Michaelmass to Martinmass, the Fields are cover'd with 'em.
Another Singularity is the multitude of Nightingales, in the Woods near Leipsic; whereof they take great numbers, and keep them in Cages: The Innkeeper's Daughter, where I lodged, had seven of them; and I have seen a great many at other Houses.
'Tis surprizing that so plentiful a Country as Saxony shou'd have no better Ordinarys. I don't mean Leipsic and Dresden, where, considering one is in Germany, we come off pretty well; tho' were it so in Holland, the Netherlands, or in France, we shou'd not think ourselves well us'd. I mean the little Towns and Villages in a Road so frequented as that from Leipsic to Dresden. There's Provision to be had at these Ordinarys, but then 'tis so ill dress'd, and the Houses so nasty, that 'tis enough to turn one's Stomach.
Setting out from Leipsic, at the opening of the Gates, I came betimes to Wermstorf, or Hubertsbourg, (St. Hubert's Palace,) a magnificent Hunting-Seat, which the Electoral Prince of Saxony is building at the Entrance of a Forest, where there are several Roads cut. This House is five Miles from Leipsic, and eight from Dresden; and when 'tis finish'd, will be large and magnificent: Men are hard at work upon it, and the main Body of it is already compleated. Their Royal Highnesses, the Prince and Princess, generally hunt here at Spring and Autumn. The Equipage for the Stag-hunting is very fine, the Liveries being Yellow, with Facings of blue Velvet, and Silver Lace at all the Seams.
After I had walk'd an Hour or two at Hubertsbourg, I proceeded on my Journey, and came to Dinner at Meissen, the Capital of Misnia. This City has nothing particular, besides its Manufacture
of Porcellane, which is so finely painted and enamell'd with Gold, that it is more beautiful than the Porcellane of Japan, and much dearer. The Invention of it is owing to an Alchymist, or one that pretended to be such; who had persuaded a great many People he cou'd make Gold. The King of Poland believ'd it as well as others, and to make sure of his Person, caus'd him to be committed to the Castle of Konigstein, three Miles from Dresden. There, instead of making Gold, that solid precious Metal, which puts Mankind on committing so many Follies, he invented Brittle Porcellane; by which, in one Sense, he made Gold, because the great Vent of that Ware brings a deal of Money into the Country.
After having pass'd the Elbe, over a wooden Bridge, going out of Meissen, I came in less than three Hours to Dresden, the Capital of the Electorate of Saxony. The City is pretty large, fortify'd with Art and Regularity; and very lightsome. Its Houses are high and substantial, the Streets broad, strait, well pav'd, neat, and in the Night-time well lighted. There are great Squares in it; and the whole City is so well laid out, that Dresden may be rank'd among the finest in the World.
The Elbe divides it into two Parts; which are distinguished by Old and New Dresden, and join'd together by a Bridge of Stone.
In order to give you a more perfect Idea of this City, I shall point out to you such things as I took most notice of. I shall begin with Old Dresden, which is the first that we come to from Meissen. At the Entrance of the Town, on the right hand, there is a great House, called the Palace of the Indies, or Holland House, which the King bought some Years ago of his Prime Minister, the Marshal Count de Fleming. All the Rooms of this Palace,
which consists of three Stories, are so many Closets of Japan and China Wares. I don't believe that all the Warehouses in Amsterdam put together, are capable of furnishing such a quantity of uncommon old Porcellane, as is to be found here. The value of it is computed at a Million of Crowns. The very Houshold-Goods are Indian. There is one Set of Furniture, the like of which I never saw elsewhere: It consists of Feathers of various Colours, and all natural; inlaid with so much Art, that it might be taken for a fine flower'd Sattin.