from Brussels, Antwerp, &c. to Amsterdam, where these new Citizens contributed so much to the Revival of its Commerce, that they have render'd it one of the finest and richest Cities in Being; and 'tis commonly call'd, The Warehouse of the World.
If the Situation of Amsterdam be duly considered, it may be said to be one of the Wonders of the World. It stands so low, that it wou'd be continually in danger of being drown'd, were not the Water kept out by Dykes as high as the Waves. The River Amstel, so gentle that one can hardly perceive which way it runs, passes thro' the whole City, and forms the great Canal over which there are two Bridges. That which is at the Mouth of the Sea, call'd the Pont-neuf, is one of the finest of the kind, not only for its Sluices, but for the noble View there is from thence of the Harbor, where Ships are continually going out or coming in from all parts of the World. Besides the Great Canal, there are others which deserve to be taken notice of, as, The Emperors Canal, The Lords Canal; that of the Cingle, and the Princes Canal: All these Canals are broad and deep, and furnish'd with great Kays. The Sides are fac'd with Free-stone or Brick, and adorn'd with Lime-Trees and Elms. Very fine Houses are built on most of these Kays, and especially upon the Kay of The Lords Canal; and new ones are building every day, which are very beautiful; and tho' they are small, and not in the Rules of Architecture, have a certain Air of Neatness which is to be found no where else. Almost all the Houses have very fine Steps of shining black Marble, and noble Window-Frames, with very fine Panes, which are often of polish'd Glass.
The Streets of Amsterdam are generally pretty narrow, yet very fine and neat; and on certain Days of the Week great Care is taken to wash them. I must tell you by the way, that there is not a place where the People are so fond of washing as they are at Amsterdam; for they scour the inside of their Houses every Week without fail, together with the Furniture of the Kitchen; so that they are always in the Suds. 'Tis true, that without this Care every thing would grow mouldy and spoil, as Foreigners have very often experienc'd, who, how loth soever to comply with this sort of Slavery, which they thought only the Fashion of the Country, were soon oblig'd to submit to it: And I believe, that were it not for this Necessity of always washing, the Dutch wou'd not lose so much Time about it; for in other respects I have not observ'd 'em so nice. These People wear a Shirt for a Fortnight very well under a nasty, greasy Woollen Waistcoat: and their manner of eating is as slovenly; for the Generality know no Forks but their Fingers, wherewith they scoop up the Sallad swimming in the Vinegar, which is commonly their favorite Dish[30].
Of all the Public Buildings at Amsterdam, the Stadt-house is certainly the most magnificent. 'Tis a great Pile built of Free-stones very finely set, and forms a long Square. The 7 Porticoes which are in the main Front, and which the Architect has reduc'd to the number of 7, to denote the 7 United Provinces, are look'd upon as a defect in Architecture; for they are so narrow, that three Persons can scarce walk a-breast in them: which indeed is contrary to the Rules of
Architecture, but yet no Fault in a Building, which like the Stadt-house is frequently expos'd to the Rage and Riots of a People as turbulent as the Amsterdamers. These seven Porticoes lead to two Gates at the Foot of the Grand Stair-Case. I don't pretend, Madame, to give you all the particular Beauties of this Structure, being not acquainted enough with the Rules, or even the Terms of Architecture, to presume to enter into any Description of this nature; therefore I shall confine my self to what most strikes the Eye.
The Pediment of the principal Front was to my mind well fancy'd. 'Tis adorn'd with a Relievo of white Marble, in which a Woman is represented supporting the Arms of the City. There is also a Neptune, some Figures of Heroes, Lions, Unicorns, and the whole is of admirable Workmanship. This Pediment is crown'd with three fine Statues of Brass, which denote Justice, Power and Plenty. On the very Top of this whole Building there's a Tower in form of a Dome. Here is a very fine Clock with Chimes, which are a pretty Amusement for such as are fond of that sort of Music.
The Inside of this House is every part of it very magnificent. The Chamber where they pass Sentence on Criminals is lin'd throughout with Marble, and adorn'd with Basso-Relievo's, representing all the Emblems and Attributes of Justice. That which is most admir'd there is a fine Marble Statue representing Themis. This Room is rais'd very high, and a little too dark; yet 'tis so contriv'd, that all the People in the Square may see the Criminals try'd. The three Porticoes at the Entrance answer to the three Windows of this Hall, which Windows instead
of Glass, have noble Bars of Brass curiously wrought.
The Great Hall is another stately Room, to which there's an Ascent by a large Stair-Case with two Flights. All the Walls are lin'd with Basso-Relievo's of Marble, intermix'd with fine Paintings. There are two Galleries or Corridors at the two ends of the Hall, which lead to Apartments on the right and left. In these Chambers are kept the several Offices relating to Affairs of the City. The Jurisdiction or Province of each Chamber is inscrib'd over the Door; and the Affairs there treated, are represented in magnificent Basso-Relievo's. In one of these Rooms, such Persons as are not of the Reform'd Religion are oblig'd to be married before the Echevin, or else they are condemn'd in a Fine; and according to the Laws, their Marriage is to be reckon'd null and void.