The Citadel or Castle of Antwerp was formerly reckon'd one of the strongest and most regular Citadels in Europe; but the Works which Lewis XIV. caus'd to be made in the Netherlands, and upon all the Frontiers of the Kingdom, have very much sunk the Reputation of the ancient Fortifications. 'Twas in the Square of this Castle, which was built by Order of the Duke of Alva, that he caus'd that famous Statue of Brass to be erected, which would have been an eternal Monument of his Pride and Cruelty, if it had not been pull'd down and broke to pieces by the Populace, as soon as the Duke quitted the Netherlands by Order of his Master K. Philip II. 'Tis said that while he commanded in this Country, he caus'd above 18000 Persons to be executed by the common Hangman.
Next to the Citadel, I cannot help giving you some Account of the Harbor, which is very beautiful and commodious. Here is a very large Square, where, by the Help of a certain Machine, they easily unload all the Goods. Another good Conveniency, and what contributes to render this a very trading City, is, that besides the River there are eight great Canals, by which Ships may enter into the City. Yet notwithstanding all these Conveniencies, the Trade of Antwerp, tho' considerable, is not near so flourishing now,
as it was before the Civil Wars, and the new Opinions in Affairs of Religion. 'Tis even astonishing how this City could hold up its Head again after the Calamities it suffer'd, even from its own Sovereign, whose Troops in 1576, burnt above 600 Houses in Antwerp; and while the unfortunate Inhabitants were running, as it were, into the midst of the Flames, to rescue their best Effects, the Spaniards fell upon 'em, and kill'd and drown'd near 10000. This terrible Fire was the total Ruin of Antwerp; the Town-House and several noble Palaces were reduc'd to Ashes; and the immense Riches which they contain'd were carry'd off by Plunderers, who pillag'd for three Days, during which they committed all manner of Outrages. Nevertheless, this unhappy City, which had like to have been buried for ever under its own Ashes, was rais'd to Life again some time after by the Confederates, who remain'd, as it were, its Sovereigns, till 1585, when the Prince of Parma took it from them, after a Siege that lasted near twelve Months, and was one of the most famous Sieges that had ever been known before, as well upon account of the few Troops the Duke of Parma had to carry it on, which in all were but 1200 Men, as for that famous Dyke by which he shut up the Harbor, and for the Bridge which he laid over the Scheld.
Antwerp remain'd under the Dominion of the House of Austria from that Time to the Death of Charles II. King of Spain, when it was oblig'd to receive a French Garison in the Name of Philip V. whom the Elector of Bavaria, Governor of the Netherlands, own'd for King of Spain. But by the Battle of Ramellies, Antwerp and a part of the Netherlands were reduc'd under
the Dominion of the Emperor. During the War that was enter'd into for the Spanish Monarchy, a Battle was fought in the Neighbourhood of Antwerp, near the Village of Ekeren, for which both Parties sung Te Deum.
Having set out from Antwerp to pursue my Journey to Paris, I pass'd thro' Mechlin[36], which is a very fine City, and the See of an Archbishop, whose Revenue is very considerable. The Metropolitan Church is dedicated to St. Rambaut. This City is the Seat of a Great Royal Council, which is, as it were, the Parliament of the Country, and was establish'd by Charles Duke of Burgundy in 1473. Mechlin is famous for the Lace made there, which is finer and better than any that is made in the other Towns of the Netherlands.
From Mechlin I went to Brussels[37], the Capital of the Duchy of Brabant. This City stands on the little River Senna, that falls into the Scheld by the Canal of Vilvorde, and divides the lower Town by several Canals that terminate in the said Canal of Vilvorde, which is very convenient for their Trade, whereof this City has a considerable Share. There are several Manufactures at Brussels, of which that of Devos for Tapistry is worth seeing; that skilful Operator having carried his Art to the utmost degree of Perfection that the Curious can desire. The common People of Brussels are more polite than in any other City of the Netherlands; for most of the Nobility of the Country come hither commonly to pass the Winter; and there are few Families of Note that have not a House here.
The Royal Palace is very large, and the Apartments beautiful, tho' very old. This Palace stands high above the City, being situate upon a Hill, from whence there is a noble Prospect, which is diversify'd by the Gardens, and the Park that joins to the Palace, wherein there are several very pleasant Walks, adorn'd with fine Grottos and Fountains.
The Town-house is another very fine Building. It stands in a Square, encompass'd with Grand Houses, built after Brussels was bombarded by the French, under the Command of the Marshal de Villeroy, when this Quarter of the Town in particular suffer'd very great Damage; but it is since become the more agreeable by the magnificent Houses built where the old ones stood.