a Bed-Chamber, and Great Closet and Wardrobes. The chief Officers and Ladies attending the Princesses were also commodiously lodg'd. The greatest part of the Lords of the Court had Lodgings too here, which were indeed pretty much straiten'd for want of room, but very convenient. In short, I was assur'd, that when Lewis XIV. was at Versailles, about 20,000 Persons lay every Night in the Body of this Castle, and the Buildings in the Verge of it, the Apartments and other Lodgings being so well laid out, that all this great Multitude did not croud one another.
The finest Pieces in the Inside of the Castle are the Gallery and the Saloons that join to it. The Walls are lin'd with Marble. Every Place shines with the Works of the greatest Masters in Gold and Brass, and with noble Pier-Glasses. I have heard say, that before the War for the Spanish Succession, all the Tables, Chandeliers and Stands, which are now of Marble and gilt Frames, were of Massy Silver; but the King converted them into Money to help defray the vast Expences of the Wars he was then engaged in. The Cieling of the Gallery represents in several Pictures the principal Actions of Lewis the XIVth's Life; and is also adorn'd with Cartridges and Gildings, which are remarkable both for their Richness and their Elegance.
The Chapel is perfectly answerable to the Magnificence of the Inside of the Castle. The Critics indeed think 'tis too lofty for its Bigness; and without pretending to much Skill in Architecture, of which what I now say is perhaps a Proof, I should readily subscribe to their Opinion. Indeed a Man ought to be plac'd in the Pew from whence the King hears Mass, to have a just View
of the fine Paintings with which the Cieling is enrich'd; and than which there's nothing to be seen that is finer or better fancy'd. The principal Picture represents God the Father in all his Glory, as fully as Human Weakness can conceive it. This is a piece of Painting I am never weary of admiring; and I found some new Pleasure every time I look'd on it. The Cieling is supported by noble Pillars of a white Stone, as beautiful as Marble, which form a Gallery that runs round the Chapel, of an equal height all along with the King's Pew, and the Ballisters are of yellow Copper and Marble. When one looks down from the Pew, the Chapel seems too low, and the Great Altar not high enough. Opposite to the King's Pew, and exactly over the High Altar, there's an Organ-Loft of a very good Contrivance, where the King's Music sits. 'Tis a very good Band; and those who are nice Judges always admire the first Touch they give to their Instruments, the Moment that the King enters the Chapel to hear Mass.
I own to you, Madame, that I thought it one of the finest Sights in the World, to see Lewis XIV. enter the Chapel in all his Grandeur, attended by the Cardinals and the Lords of his Court. The Life-Guards and the Hundred Swiss took up the Gallery and the Bottom of the Chapel, and the Drums beat, and the Swiss Fifes play'd till his Majesty was seated. On Communion or Sermon Days the King went down into the Chapel, and then the Pavement, which is of very fine Marble, was cover'd all over with noble Tapestry. When the King receiv'd the Sacrament, a Praying-Desk was set for him over-against the High Altar, and then the Hundred Swissers were rang'd in two
Rows, and the Courtiers encompass'd his Majesty. During the Sermon the King's Chair of State was plac'd over-against the Pulpit, and the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family and Blood were seated in Folding Chairs, on both sides of the King in the same Line. But the Princes and Princesses very seldom assisted at the King's Mass; and when they did, they kneel'd leaning on the same Ballustrade that the King did, but quite off of his Carpet.
The Gardens of Versailles may be rank'd among the modern Wonders; and I don't believe that the so much boasted Gardens of the superb Semiramis were finer. For really, considering the Statues, Vases and Water-works of Marble and Brass, one wou'd think Pains had been taken to ransac Greece and Rome it self, both ancient and modern, for its most wonderful Productions on purpose to bring them to this charming Place. These Gardens were plann'd by the famous Le Nautre. At the end of the Great Walk which fronts the Castle there's a very spacious Canal. It forms a Cross to a certain Distance, one side of which leads to the Menagerie, and the other to Trianon. The Menagerie is a very little House with only a few Rooms, from whence the King may see the rarest Animals of all sorts, which are kept there. As for Trianon and its Gardens, one would not think at the first View that they were made by Man. The Whole is perfectly inchanting, and a Person ever so little captivated with the strange Tales of the Fairies, wou'd not scruple to think this magnificent Structure the Master-piece of those ingenious Work-women. The whole Building, to outward Appearance, seems very small; but when one examines the Inside of it, the Apartments
are both spacious and commodious. The Outside of this Palace is partly hid by fine Groves; what appears of it is fac'd with white Marble, adorn'd with an Order of Pilasters of red Marble, with Windows in form of Arches between them. Lewis XIV. often retir'd to this charming Solitude, to be shelter'd from the Importunities of the Courtiers; and no body was admitted to him but such Persons as his Majesty appointed.
A little League from Versailles there's Marly, another Royal Palace; and which of all the Palaces has the most pleasant Gardens, tho' those of Versailles are by much more sumptuous. The Great Cascade, which is all of Marble of various Colors, makes a stately Appearance. When one is at the Top of this Cascade, and looks toward the Palace, one sees all the Gardens, and a Plain thro' which the River Seine winds itself, having on one side the Castle of St. Germain en Laye; and on the other the Castle de Maisons, belonging to the President of that Name, which forms an admirable Point of View. Lewis XIV. who was fond of Marly, condescended to divest himself there of part of his Grandeur, and did a great many Ladies of Quality the Honor to make them sit down with him at Table. Thus, Madame, have I given you a slight Sketch of the famous Palace of Versailles, and its Neighbourhood. I did not think it so proper to give you an exact Detail of the Beauties one discovers at every Step in this magnificent Palace. You have undoubtedly seen a good Description of them already, in the Books printed upon that Subject. I shall now add a Word or two of the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family.