There's a better Air at Utrecht than in the other Towns of Holland, the Ground it stands on being much higher, and by consequence not so marshy. This Town, which is situate upon the old Channel of the Rhine, is incompass'd with a fine fruitful Plain, and has charming Walks in the Neighbourhood, which are not inferior to those at the Hague.
The French were at one time Masters of this Place, but on the 13th of November 1673, it reverted to its lawful Sovereigns. When I arriv'd here I heard that the Peace was just sign'd by the Plenipotentiaries of France and Spain on the one part, and by the Ministers of England, Portugal, Prussia, Savoy and Holland, on the other part. The principal Conditions were, That Philip V. should remain in possession of the Crown of Spain, on condition nevertheless that he should renounce the Succession to the Crown of France, for himself and his Descendants: That England should have Gibraltar in Spain, and Port-Mahon in the Mediterranean: That Dunkirk should be demolish'd: France, by the way, was very loth to consent to the ruin of a Place which had already cost her several Millions, and requir'd a considerable Expence moreover to demolish. The Elector of Brandenburg was recogniz'd King of Prussia, both by France and Spain, and had even the Title of Majesty given him, which France never us'd to allow to the Kings of Denmark and Poland. To the King of Prussia was
also yielded what he before possess'd in Spanish Guelderland, as an Equivalent for the Principality of Orange, which that Monarch yielded to France. The Duke of Savoy was own'd King of Sicily, and he obtain'd some Places in the Milanese. The King of Portugal remain'd peaceable Possessor of the Conquests which he had made during the War. The Dutch got least of all by the Peace, and perhaps they repented that they did not accept of the Terms offer'd them at Gertruydenberg.
As soon as I arriv'd at Utrecht, I did not fail to make a Visit to the Ambassadors of Prussia, who were the Count de Denhoff, the Count de Metternich, and the Marshal de Biberstein. They receiv'd me with all the Civility possible, and presented me to all the Foreign Ministers. I found at this City the Countess Dowager of Wartemberg, who was lately come hither. The Count her Husband, who died at Francfort, desir'd upon his Death-bed that his Corpse might be carried to Berlin, which was perform'd with a good deal of Pomp. They say, that the late King, who was very fond of him, as I have already had the Honor to mention to you, wou'd needs see his Funeral Convoy; and as it pass'd before the Windows of his Castle he could not refrain shedding Tears. Perhaps he then repented that he had disgrac'd that Minister on such slight Pretences; and perhaps too, the melancholy Spectacle put him in mind of that unavoidable Coast, on which both the Majesty of Kings, and the Magnificence of Courtiers, will at last be run ashore.
The Countess of Wartemberg was more undaunted. She was far from indulging any mortifying Reflection; but on the contrary, was
glad to find her self in possession of a very great Estate; and gladder still to think that she was uncontroulable. She left Francfort where she had resided ever since her Husband's Disgrace; and thinking that too melancholy a Place to spend her Life in, she made choice of the City of Utrecht, as the most gay of any that she knew. She soon had an Intrigue or two upon her hands; and when I arriv'd, I heard that the Chevalier de B—— was her Bosom Friend. This Gentleman was newly set out for Versailles, with a Commission to carry the News of the Peace. I was not much concerned whether I made any Visit to the Countess; for I observ'd that all of our Court who were then at Utrecht, were shy of her to such a degree, that I did not care to be the only one that shew'd any Regard for her. But tho' I had resolv'd not to visit her, I happen'd to fall in her Way. This Lady had brought a French Gentlewoman with her, whom I knew very well at Berlin; and as she had Wit at will, I had a mind to renew my Acquaintance with her, the rather because I had a Curiosity to know a little of the Countess's History. The first time I paid her a Visit she made me an Offer to carry me to see the Countess of Wartemberg; which I refus'd in such a manner that she did not insist upon my going. But she thought fit to tell the Countess that I was lately come to Utrecht; that I had paid her a Visit; and that she thought I perfectly resembled the Chevalier de B——. There needed no other Motive to set the Countess agog to see me; and she desir'd her Gentlewoman to bring me to her. But notwithstanding all her Persuasion, I peremptorily refus'd it. At last, as I was making a Visit one day to the Gentlewoman,
who should bounce into the Room where I was, but the Countess de Wartemberg. She said, that tho' I scorn'd her so much as not to make her a Visit, she had resolv'd to come and see me. I was going to reply, but the Countess, without giving me time to speak, told me, that she thought me alter'd much for the better; that no two drops of Water were more like than I, and the Chevalier de B——; and that in short we perfectly resembled each other even in the Tone of our Voice: But by Madam de Wartemberg's leave, there never were two People more unlike. The Knight Commander was a handsome well-set Man, which you know, Madame, is a Character I never had the Vanity to affect; and I thought every part of the Countess's Compliment so extraordinary, that in truth, a Scholar just come from the College could not have been more dash'd than I was. I made an Answer, 'tis true, but to tell you frankly, I knew not what I said. I gave her my Hand, and led her to her own Apartment, where she still descanted upon the mighty Resemblance betwixt the Chevalier and me. In fine, I think I may venture to say, without giving my self an Air as if I was the Darling of the Fair Sex, and without passing in your Opinion for a Coxcomb, that 'twas my own fault I was not taken, in Body and Soul, for the Chevalier; but I was so fortunate as to be disintangled by a Valet de Chambre, who came to acquaint her of the Arrival of M. Menager the third Plenipotentiary of France at the Congress, to whom I had Obligations for bringing me out of this Scrape. This kind of Visit made me take proper Measures to prevent any more such, for the little time I had to stay in this City.
From Utrecht I went to Wesel, and from thence thro' Westphalia to the Duchy of Magdebourg. The City of this Name was formerly an Archbishopric, erected by the Emperor Otho the Great in favor of the Vandals newly converted, but by the Peace of Westphalia the whole Country was seculariz'd with the Title of a Duchy, in favor of the Brandenburg Family, in Exchange for that part of Pomerania which was yielded to the Swedes. There are few Towns in Germany that have suffer'd so many Revolutions as Magdebourg. This City was put under the Ban of the Empire in 1553, by Charles V. for refusing Submission to his Orders, for it was then in open Rebellion, so that the Elector Maurice of Saxony was sent to reduce it. The Siege lasted a whole Year, the Elector not being very much in haste to push on the Conquest. As this War was undertaken purely for the Destruction of the Protestant Religion, which this City had embraced; the Elector, who was himself a Protestant, thought by spinning out the Siege to regain the good Opinion of those of his Religion, who were uneasy to see him support the Interests of the Emperor and the Catholics. The Elector however made them easy, by promising the Protestants of Magdebourg, that he would join them in the War against the Emperor, immediately after the Surrender of the Place. Matters were transacted on both sides with very great sincerity. The Place surrender'd, and the Elector entered it not as a victorious Prince, but rather as an Ally who brought Relief to it. He made use of the Garison to reinforce his Army, and then declar'd War against the Emperor, on pretence that the Religion and Liberty of Germany were in danger.