From Zell I went to Hambourg[44], purely to see that City. I had travel'd thither once before, but was then so young that I was not in a Capacity to take notice of any thing in this City worthy of Remark. Hambourg, which is one of the best Towns in Germany, is a part of Lower Saxony, being situate upon the Elbe a few Leagues from the Mouth of that River, which is a great Conveniency to its Trade. Before it was erected into a Republic 'twas a part of Holstein, on the Territory of which it was built; and therefore it had frequent Quarrels with the Dukes of Holstein, and the Kings of Denmark, who are the Sovereigns of Holstein. The latter, as well as the Swedes, have attempted several times to make themselves Masters of Hambourg, but have been repuls'd as often as they came before it: For this City is not easy to be reduc'd, because it has noble Ramparts and very strong Out-works, and it also takes care to be well provided with Artillery,

and a good Garrison. Moreover, 'tis always sure of the Protection of the Families of Brandenburg and Brunswic, it being so advantagiously situated, that 'tis the Interest of both, that no Power whatsoever should take it.

Hambourg is also very considerable on account of the Wealth of its Inhabitants, who are almost all Merchants, and much of the Temper of the Dutch Merchants, very greedy of Gain and thrifty. Their greatest Delight is so have Gardens at the City-Gates, pretty much in the Taste of those of Holland. The Wives of the great Merchants are as much confin'd at Hambourg, as the Women of Quality are at Venice, but I observ'd they were only pent up from Foreigners. A Man may pass his time very well in this City, where there are several Persons of Quality to see, who make their Visitors perfectly welcome. The Walks in and about this City are charming, and especially that on the Ramparts is a noble one, there being a double Row of Trees which forms an agreeable Covert, and from whence there's a Prospect finely diversify'd by noble Houses, Gardens, Woods, Meadows, &c. in the midst of which one sees the Rivers Elbe and Alster, which both together yield a charming View. The River of Alster comes into the Town and forms a Basin very like a great Pond, which has a fine Kay on the sides of it planted with several Rows of Lime-Trees, between which there's a very fine Walk.

Near Hambourg lies the Town of Altena[45]. The King of Denmark gave it this Name to banter the Deputies of Hambourg who made Remonstrances to him against his building this Town too near to theirs, and in their Discourse

to the King about the Town said several times, Sie ist al te na, which in the Language of the Country signifies, it is too near. The King taking particular Notice of the Monosyllables al te na, said to the Deputies that he could not excuse himself from carrying on the Town which he was building, and that all he could do to oblige them was to order it to be call'd by the Name of Altena, which they themselves had given it. And indeed, a more significant Name could not have been put upon this Town, for 'tis situate just at the Gates of Hambourg, and is a part of Danish Holstein. It was formerly a priviledg'd Place for Bankrupts, and for all that had committed any Crime in Hambourg. But the present King of Denmark, rather than this Town should continue any longer in the Enjoyment of a Privilege which fill'd it with Knaves and Vagabonds, delivers up Malefactors to the Magistrates of Hambourg whenever they reclaim them.

Altena is remarkable for the Multiplicity of Religions which are there publickly exercis'd. I believe, that excepting Amsterdam, there is not a Town in Europe where there are so many Sects; but few of 'em are allow'd a Church. The Neighbourhood of this Town to Hambourg, and its Situation moreover upon the Elbe, does great Prejudice to that City. 'Tis now several years since Altena was burnt by the Swedes, under the Command of the Count de Steinbock; when they scarce allow'd Time to the Inhabitants to make their Escape; so that they had the Grief to be Eye-Witnesses of the burning of their Houses and Goods, and several Old Men, and a number of Infants perish'd in the Flames. I found Altena in that sorrowful State when I first went thither;

but upon a Review of it since, I see that 'tis rebuilt in such a manner, that 'tis now a finer and more flourishing Town than ever. After four or five days Stay at Hambourg I set out, and never did any body go off at a more proper Time; for in a few days after it, the Plague discover'd it self in the City; upon which it was shut up, and its Communication forbid with any other Place.

I return'd thro' Zell, where I made no manner of stay, to Aix-la-Chapelle[46], an Imperial City, on the Confines of the Duchies of Juliers and Limbourg. 'Tis encompass'd with Mountains, which form so pleasant a Vale, that Charlemain chose rather to reside at Aix-la-Chapelle, than in either of the many beautiful Cities which he conquer'd. This Emperor caus'd a Collegiate Church to be built here, in which his Tomb is still to be seen; and the Memory of that Prince is to this day held in great Veneration. On the Festival of St. Charles, there's a solemn Procession here, in which the Effigies of that Monarch is carried with an Equipage which excites Laughter rather than Devotion. The Preacher's Pulpit in this same Collegiate Church is inrich'd with Plates of Gold; and they say that the Branch which hangs down before the High Altar is of the same Metal. 'Tis in this Church that many Emperors have been consecrated; and several of the Imperial Ornaments are still kept there. The Emperor is born Canon of the Church of Aix, and takes the Oath as such on the Day of his Coronation.

Certain Reliques are preserv'd at Aix-la-Chapelle, which are shew'd but once in seven years; and

then they are expos'd to View from the top of a Tower in the City, during which the People gaze at them on their Knees, in the Squares and Streets leading to the said Tower. This Ceremony was perform'd when I was at Aix in 1713, at which time there was a Concourse to it of an incredible number of Pilgrims from Hungary, Tirol, and all the Provinces of Germany. Persons of superior Rank are allow'd the Liberty of going up to the top of the Tower where those Reliques are expos'd, and may look near to them, but must by no means touch them. Of all that I saw, I only remember a Smock, which they affirm was the Virgin's: There were some spots on it, which they said were the Stains of the Milk with which she suckled the Savior of the World. This Shift seem'd to be quite seamless, and made of a sort of Stuff which I know not how to describe to you, for it was neither of Linnen nor Callico.