The Chapter of Mentz consists of forty two Canons, of whom the Dean and the twenty three first are call'd Capitulars, and the other Domicellaires. The former only are those that elect the Archbishop, who from the Moment that he is chose, becomes an Elector of the Empire. The Pope confirms his Election in Spirituals, and the Emperor does the same in Temporals. The Elector becomes at the same time Great Chancellor of the Empire of Germany, which gives him the Title of perpetual Dean of the Electors, and an Inspection into the Aulic Council and the Imperial Chamber of Wetzlar.
Mentz has a very flourishing Trade, especially in Wines. The best Vineyards for Rhenish Wines are in the Dominions of the Elector, and especially in the Neighbourhood of Mentz. And that which also contributes very much to the Briskness of its Commerce is, that all the Merchandize that passes up and down the Rhine, stops in its Harbor, to be put on board fresh Bottoms.
I did not stay long at Mentz, but set out for Stutgard[66], the Capital of the Duchy of Wirtemberg. This City stands in a very fine Country, and is divided into two parts by a small River call'd the Neckar. The Houses at Stutgard are generally ill built, yet as the Streets are broad and lightsome, the Town is very gay. The Ducal Palace is very old but very commodious, by reason of the Extent and Number of the Apartments. Here is a very fine Garden with an Orangery, which is not to be parallel'd.
The Trees are kept in full Mould, secur'd by a Roof and a sliding Partition, which they take care to warm in the Winter by several Stoves that make it one continu'd Summer. The Duke of Wirtemberg is seldom in this Palace, except at the time of the Carnival; but as for his Duchess, she is there almost always, and has a separate House from the Duke's, where she lives very retir'd. I wish'd for an Opportunity to pay my Respects to her, but was deprived of that Honor, because I had not been introduc'd to the Duke. This Prince's usual Residence is at Ludwigsbourg a Pleasure-House which he caus'd to be built some Leagues from Stutgard; but while I was at Wirtemberg he was with the whole Court at Wildstadt, whither I went to have the Honor of paying my Duty to him. Wildstadt is one of the vilest Places in Germany, yet 'tis very much frequented by reason of its Baths of Mineral Waters, which are said to be a sovereign Remedy for many Diseases, especially Sciaticas, and for bracing the Nerves. The Duke commonly spends a Month or six Weeks here with his whole Court, which being very numerous and splendid, Wildstadt is then a Place agreeable enough. The Duke had with him the Hereditary Prince, his Son, who is married to Henrietta of Prussia, the late Margrave Philip's Daughter. The Person of this Prince was very amiable, and like the Duke his Father, his Behavior is the most courteous that can be, especially to Foreigners, to whom they are both very kind. While the Court was at Wildstadt, their Amusement in the Morning was the use of the Baths, where the Duke and the Prince his Son gave Gentlemen the Liberty of bathing with them; for it must be observ'd that each Bath
will hold twenty Persons very commodiously. When the Bathing was over, they took their Rest. Towards Noon there was an Assembly in the Apartment of the Duke, who went from thence to the Apartment of the Hereditary Princess, who lodg'd with the Prince her Husband in a House over-against the Duke's. There was a Table for sixteen Guests very well serv'd, where the Gentlemen eat with the Duke and his Children, and none but Pages waited. After Dinner the Duke either rode, or caus'd others to ride some manag'd Horses, than which I have no where seen any that were more beautiful or better train'd than his were. In the Evening there was another Assembly at the Princess's, where there was play till Supper-time. I was told that when the Court was at Ludwigsbourg there was a greater Variety of Diversions, and that besides Gaming there was some Theatrical Entertainments, of which the Duke was very fond, and actually kept a Company of French Comedians in Pay, who perform'd very well. In a word, this Prince may be said to have neglected nothing that he thought suitable to his Dignity, or that might render his Court more splendid. And that every thing might look with a certain Air of Grandeur, he was resolv'd, like other Sovereigns, to establish an Order, of which he himself is the Head. They call it the Order of St. Hubert. 'Tis a broad red Ribband, to which hangs a Cross enamell'd white. None are admitted into it, but Persons of distinguish'd Families. Besides this Order, the Duke also wears those of Prussia and Denmark alternatively. The Hereditary Prince wears the Prussian Order at large, and that of the Duke his Father at his Button-Hole, just as they wear the Cross of
St. Lewis in France, except nevertheless on the Festival Days of St. Hubert, when he wears the red Ribband at full length.
Among the Persons of Distinction that accompanied the Duke to Wildstadt, those of most Note were the Count de Gravenitz and S——, which two Gentlemen had the sole Disposition of Affairs. The first was Grand Marshal of the Court and Prime Minister, and he wore the Order of Prussia, the King having therewith honor'd him at the Marriage of the Hereditary Prince with the Princess of Prussia. This Minister, who had the Duke of Wirtemberg's intire Confidence, had been nominated to accompany the Hereditary Prince to Berlin. He certainly deserv'd the Favor with which the Duke honor'd him; and I have not known many Noblemen more civil and obliging. But S—— wanted a great deal of being so affable; tho' his Origin was very different. He was a meer Creature of Fortune, who to be sure thought himself at the height of Felicity when he was Secretary to the late M. B——, Minister of State to the late King at Berlin. Nevertheless, after the Death of his Master his Star guided him to the Court of Wirtemberg, where he has amass'd immense Riches, and is entered into the greatest Employments. He wears the Order of Dannebrog, the King of Prussia having desir'd it for him of the King of Denmark, upon the Recommendation of the Duke of Wirtemberg, who being very willing to give his Minister some Badge of Honor, and not caring at the same time to debase his own Order of St. Hubert, caus'd the Order of Dannebrog to be demanded for him, which is given to all Persons indifferently without regard to Quality.
The Duke of Wirtemberg's Court is altogether Lutheran, as well as the rest of his Dominions. Mean time he permitted the Princess, who is a Calvinist, to have a particular Chapel for her self and her Domestics. The Countess de Gravenitz, Wife to the Grand Marshal, who is a Catholic, was also allow'd a Chapel for the Exercise of her Religion.
I forgot to tell you what Title is assum'd by the Dukes of Wirtemberg. They call themselves Banner-Bearers of the Empire, which Title they distinguish in the third Quartering of their Shield, which is Azure with the Banner of the Empire, Or charg'd with a Spread-Eagle Sable, plac'd Bend-wise. The Dukes of Wirtemberg have another Dignity more solid than the former, viz. to be joint Directors of the Circle of Swabia, with the Bishop of Constance.