of the most skilful Artists in all manner of Works; and if a Man has never so little Taste for Curiosities, he will at every Turn discover new Beauties.
The Plan of this Building is a Cross, with a very spacious and lofty Dome in the middle; the Ceiling of which is gilded and painted in Mosaic. Under this Dome stands the High Altar, which is not to be parallel’d for its Magnificence: ’Tis rais’d some Steps from the Ground, and stands by itself; there is none but the Pope, or, in his Absence, the Dean of the sacred College, that can say Mass at it: Four wreathed Columns of Brass, with Vine-Leaves twining about them, support a superb Canopy or Pavilion, which is intirely of Brass: ’Tis adorn’d with Basso-Relievo’s, and especially of Bees, to denote the Arms of Pope Urban VIII. of the Barberini Family, who caus’d this noble Pavilion to be erected. Over each Pillar is an Angel of Brass gilt, 17 Feet high. The Cornices of the Pillars are wide enough for Children to play and walk between them: Under the Altar is the Tomb of the Apostles St. Peter and St. Paul, to which is a Descent by Two Flights of Marble Steps, in Form of a Horse-shoe. The whole is adorn’d with Compartments of Marble and precious Stones, the Workmanship of which even surpasses the Beauty of the Materials. These Steps are encompass’d with Banisters of Brass, on which a great Number of Silver Lamps is perpetually burning, except on Good Friday.
St. Peter’s Chair is over-against the great Altar; ’tis all of Brass, and very high; ’tis supported by the Four Fathers of the Church, whose Colossal Statues are of Brass gilt: Over the Chair is a Glory of Brass, which reaches to
the Roof, and underneath is a magnificent Altar, on the Sides whereof are Two Tombs of Popes.
I have already done myself the Honour to acquaint you, that I did not propose to give a particular Detail of all the fine Things which most of the Italian Cities, and especially Rome, offer to the Eyes of the curious Spectator; for I should in that case only repeat what a hundred Travellers have already describ’d at large; I therefore silently pass over several Monuments, with which you are perfectly acquainted, by the reading of several Travels to Italy: I will only tell you by the way, that I was astonish’d at the Beauty of the Tomb of the famous Christina Queen of Sweden, who, after having made a voluntary Resignation of her Crown, and turn’d Catholic, at last fix’d her Residence at Rome, where she dy’d. This Princess was interr’d in St. Peter’s Church, where a magnificent Tomb of Marble and Brass was erected for her; and there’s her Picture in a Medallion, which is very fine. On one Side of this Princess’s Tomb, is that of the famous Countess Matilda, whose Memory ought to be very dear to the Popes, she having been one of the most signal Benefactrices which the Church ever had.
Besides the Inside and Outside of St. Peter’s Church, there are Places under Ground which are very magnificent: One sees several Chapels there lin’d with Marble, whose Altars are adorn’d with Mosaic Paintings, to fortify them against the Damps. The Roof of this Church is also worth seeing; one ascends first to the Dome by a Stair-case, rising gradually without Steps; after which one ascends by another, which is not so commodious, to a Globe at the Top of the Dome,
which supports its Cross: From hence there’s a Prospect of the Country for near 40 Miles.
I went from St. Peter’s Church to see the Vatican Palace, which joins to it: This was formerly the Pope’s common Residence, but for some time past they have given the Palace of Monte Cavallo the Preference to it, that being said to be in a much healthier Air. The Vatican is a very irregular Pile, of several Pieces of Buildings coupled together, which compose an Edifice of a prodigious Size, where by Consequence there must be a great Number of Apartments. ’Tis accompany’d with a Garden, at the End of which is a House call’d Belvedere, because of the fine Prospect there is from it. In this Palace there are all the most curious Things one would wish to see in Pictures and in Statues. The Pope’s Apartments are very fine, and hung with crimson Damask or Velvet, adorn’d with a broad Lace and Fringe of Gold. I enter’d into a great Apartment, which was heretofore richly furnish’d for the Reception of Philip V. King of Spain, at the time when he was in Italy, and expected at Rome.
The famous Vatican Library is also worth the Traveller’s View, being full of very scarce Books and curious MSS. You know, it has been very much augmented by the Heidelberg Library, and that of the Duke of Urbino.
After having satisfy’d my Curiosity with regard to these Structures, I thought of making some Visits: I went to the Marquis C——, and to the Duke S——, for whom I had Letters given me at Florence. Those Gentlemen were mighty civil to me, and offer’d to shew me the Curiosities at Rome, and to introduce me to the Assemblies. In Fact the Marquis C—— carry’d