me the very same Day to Madame de B——, where I found a very fine Assembly of Ladies and Gentlemen, and especially Abbes, smart Fellows, who were able to read Lectures to the nicest Petit-Maitres in the Art of Coquetry. The Ladies were very well dress’d, and for most part amiable, but not very easy of Access to such as had not the Honour of wearing the little Band. The young Abbes had taken Care to engross them so, that there seem’d to be no Possibility of coming near them. After some Chat, and swallowing good Store of Chocolate, we went into another Room, where the Company sat down to several Sorts of Play. There I thought with myself, of what Advantage it would have been for me to be Monsieur l’ Abbe. Every one of these Gentlemen readily found Partners, but for my part, as they did not do me the Honour to offer me the Cards, I was perfectly idle; and had it not been for the Person that introduc’d me, with whom I talk’d now-and-then, I should have made a very queer Figure: I did not think fit to stay till the Assembly broke up, and was very glad when I got out.
Next Day I took an Antiquarian with me, to serve as my Guide, to shew me the greatest Curiosities at Rome: He carry’d me first to the most considerable Squares; and of these the first that I saw was the Trajan Square, in the middle whereof stands the famous Trajan Pillar, so call’d from the Emperor Trajan, who began it, tho’ ’twas not finish’d till after his Death: ’Tis 128 Feet in Height, and has a Stair-case that leads to the Top, consisting of 123 Steps. The Outside of this Pillar is of Marble, and represents Trajan’s principal Actions in Basso-Relievo. This Column was rais’d higher by Pope Sixtus V. who
had St. Peter’s Statue plac’d on the Top of it, instead of an Urn, which they say contain’d the Ashes of the Emperor Trajan.
My Antiquarian conducted me afterwards to the Place Navona, which forms a long Square, with a Number of Houses round it, which are neither regular nor magnificent. There are in the middle Three Fountains, very convenient for the Purpose they serve, which is to lay all that Part of the Town under Water in extreme hot Weather, for the Refreshment of Persons of Quality, who come thither at that time in their Coaches.
We went to see the Church of St. John de Lateran, which may be deem’d the Mother and Chief of all the Churches in Christendom: It owes its Foundation to the Emperor Constantine, who caus’d it to be built with extraordinary Magnificence; it has had the Misfortune of being twice burnt down, but was rebuilt both times with the same Magnificence: ’Tis not indeed so large, nor of such modern Architecture as St. Peter’s Church, but every whit as beautiful. The Pavement is all of Marble, and the Roof supported by Four Rows of Pillars, which are of an extraordinary Height and Circumference. Near this Church is a Chapel, built in Form of a Dome, which, ’tis said, was Constantine’s Baptistery, but this last Article is not absolutely certain.
From this Church I went to the Scala-Santa, which is a Building of Free-Stone, but no Part of it extraordinary: Three Portico’s form the principal Front; that in the middle leads to the Scala-Santa, or Holy Stair-case; so call’d because ’tis said the Steps of it are the same that form’d the Stair-case of Pilate’s Palace, by which our Lord descended, after he was scourg’d. Every
body goes up these Stairs on their Knees; it leads to a Chapel, with Grates inclosing precious Relics, particularly a Picture of Jesus Christ, which, they affirm, was painted by the Angels. ’Tis for this very Reason, that this Chapel is call’d the Sancta-Sanctorum. On one Side of this Scala-Santa there are Two little Stair-cases, for those that don’t care to ascend the Holy Stairs upon their Knees; or for those who go down, after having perform’d this Act of Devotion.
When I had seen the Scala-Santa, my Guide conducted me to the Coliseum, which is a large Amphitheatre, built of Stone: They say, that Vespasian began this superb Structure, and that his Son Titus finish’d it, and entertain’d the Public with a Battle of wild Beasts in it, of which here were to the Number of 5000. The Inside of the Coliseum is an Oval, encompass’d with Galleries and an Amphitheatre, which, according to the Opinion of some Authors, contain’d above 85,000 Spectators: ’Tis great Pity that so stately a Building was not preserv’d. Urban VIII. of the Barberini Family, permitted his Nephews to demolish a Part of the Coliseum, and to build therewith the Barberini Palace. The little that remains of it is so much fallen to Ruin, that ’tis very probable, the next Generation will know nothing of this magnificent Structure, but by the Prints that we have of it.
The Pantheon, or our Lady de la Rotonda, is the only ancient Edifice that has been preserv’d: ’Tis 228 Feet in Diameter; and from its Centre to the Top of the Dome ’tis 144 Feet: Agrippa, the Favourite and Son-in-Law of the Emperor Augustus, caus’d this Temple to be built in Honour of all the Heathen Gods; and ’tis now a Church, dedicated to All the Saints. The only
Light it has, is from a great Opening in the middle of the Roof, which, tho’ somewhat lofty, is not supported by any Pillar: It was formerly cover’d with Brass, but Urban VIII. caus’d it to be taken off, and employ’d in the building of the High Altar of St. Peter’s Church; which occasion’d his Enemies to say, That the Barberini had done, what the Barbarians durst not attempt.