The mill is equally simple, being composed of two circular stones, one of which lies flat on the other, and is turned by a small handle placed on it; this is fixed by a pivot from the lower one, and has a hole in the centre, through which it is supplied with grain.
The messes made with flour are few, and may be thus enumerated: Cusscussou, Bazeen, Dweeda, Atila, Mogatta, Zūmeita, Bread, Fetaat. Cusscussou being a dish very generally mentioned in all books of travels, I shall attempt to describe the manner in which it is made; and I trust I may be allowed, however trifling the subject, to mention in the same manner the other articles of food, as I believe they are at present only known by name.
The corn for Cusscussou is ground expressly to the state which is called Semolina in Italy, and used also under that name in England. The hand being clean washed, and a large wooden bowl prepared, a portion of semolina is thrown into it with the right hand; it is turned quickly round under the palm, while from the left, water is occasionally sprinkled upon the mass, together with dry semolina. In a short time, by turning it constantly the same way, the flour adheres in little granules, like bread crums; and by a dexterous motion of the hand, is prevented from forming into large lumps. When finished, the grains resemble small shot in size, and stick closely together, without danger of again falling into flour on being dried. They will keep good in this state nearly as long as corn. When Cusscussou is to be prepared for eating, it is put in a basket, or tin vessel having holes in the bottom, and steamed over meat, or boiling water, care being taken to stir it occasionally, so as to prevent its caking. When sufficiently done, meat is poured on with its gravy, or a little butter or grease mixed with it; should meat be wanting, a good quantity of red pepper and salt are frequently all its auxiliaries.
Bazeen (which in Fezzan is called Aseēda) is the most common food, as being the easiest prepared. It is made of the flour of any grain (Bishna and Barley are mostly used near Tripoli) in the following manner. A large pot, of copper or iron, is placed on the fire, with a little water in it, which is suffered to boil. Flour is then thrown in, until it acquires the consistency of dough, when it is stirred well about with a large stick (water being occasionally added, if necessary,) until it is quite thick, and begins to assume the appearance of a pudding, when it is taken out, and placed in a bowl. After being beat into a circular shape, and having a hole made in the centre, gravy, oil, butter, or grease, is poured on it, and it is then ready for eating, which is done by pinching pieces out with the right hand, and kneading them with the grease until they assume the appearance of thick paste. Should there be no gravy or grease to be procured, a little flour mixed with hot water is used instead of it. It requires much strength of arm to make bazeen properly, as the stick is wielded by both hands, and the pot is confined on the fire by having a forked piece of wood placed against it, on which the woman kneels while preparing the mess.
Dweeda is moulded in the shape of little seeds, not quite so large as the grains of rice; but oblong, and much resembling them. A stiff dough being prepared, the women very expeditiously pinch it out between their fingers and thumbs into this form. It is then allowed to dry; and is considered a great dainty when boiled, and a little butter poured over it.
Atila is composed much in the same way; but is longer, and much resembles small macaroni broken in pieces. It is also boiled in the same manner as Dweeda.
Mogatta is made of paste, by being beaten and turned between the hands, until it is as thin as a pancake; it is then laid in the sun to harden a little. When it becomes sufficiently crisp to break, it is crumbled in pieces, and boiled until it resembles thick porridge, the larger pieces always remaining entire. A sufficient quantity of fat and pepper completes it.
Zumeeta is made of barley, which has been a little malted; it is then ground into flour, and sometimes dates are pounded with it. In this state it remains until it is to be used; when a little cold water being mixed with it until it becomes like dough, it is fit for eating. Oil is much used with it, by dipping the Zumeeta in it when formed into mouthfuls for eating. This is almost the only stock which Arabs provide on going a journey, as it is easily prepared, and very nourishing.
Bread is made as in Europe. It is leavened with flour, or a preparation of dates, moulded into little cakes shaped like buns. The ovens are generally formed in the ground: a hole is made about two feet in depth, and in the shape of a large jar, contracted at the mouth; it is then encrusted inside with clay. Wood is thrown in and burnt, until a thick layer of glowing ashes is collected at the bottom, and the oven is thoroughly heated; the loaves are then put in by a woman, who bares and wets her arm, and sticks them against the side with great dexterity: when done enough, if not speedily taken off, they fall into the embers. Sometimes meat is dressed in these ovens; a kind of crumpet, also, called Fetaat, made in the same way as Mogatta, but without leaven, is slightly baked in them; one of these crumpets is then placed in a bowl, and soup and vegetables are poured over it; another is then put in, and soup added as before, and so on in successive layers, until the bowl is full. All these messes are eaten with the fingers.
There is great variety in the manner of dressing meat, which is stewed, boiled, or baked; but for journeys the Arabs have a very good way of preserving it, by cutting it into thin slices, drying it in the sun, and afterwards stewing it in fat. I have often observed them eating small grasses, which they found as they pursued their journey; and to my inquiries how they knew them to be innoxious, the general reply was, that whatever an animal which chewed its cud could eat with safety, must be food for man. There is a species of dandelion, very bitter, and exuding a white juice, which is much liked by the sheep as well as their masters. The taste at first is very unpleasant; but I soon became accustomed to it. The Colocynth apple grows in great quantities in some parts of the Desert, and is almost the only medicine used by the Arabs. Burning is always had recourse to, and many of them are in consequence covered with scars; it is also occasionally used to show the force of love; and both sexes practise it when they wish to give proof of very strong affection.