I learnt on my arrival that Mr. Ritchie had several times had interviews with the Bashaw, to whom he made many valuable presents; and that His Highness was fully informed of his proposed journey and plans respecting the interior. Though Mr. Ritchie himself never communicated with me on this subject, or made known what occurred at these interviews, I have every reason to conclude they were favourable to the object he had in view, and that the protection of the Bashaw, as far as his power extended, was fully ensured to the mission. The Sultan of Fezzan also on his side made the most flattering promises of protection; declaring that he only awaited the opportunity of showing his good will, and that, when arrived in his own dominions, he would act towards Mr. Ritchie as a brother, and assist him in all things to the utmost of his power. After my own introduction to Mukni, I frequently heard him repeat these expressions of regard towards Mr. Ritchie, and they extended also to myself, whom he promised equally to protect and assist.
With so powerful and friendly an ally as we had every reason to consider Mukni, we of course felt perfect security and confidence in the future, and we remained in the firm hope and assurance that all these flattering professions would be fully realised on our arrival in the kingdom of Fezzan. In a few days after I reached Tripoli I was introduced by the British Consul to the Bashaw; but as it was a private audience only, I had no opportunity of witnessing the splendour of his court. As neither Mr. Ritchie nor myself were yet equipped in our Moorish costume, which we were particularly advised by the Bashaw to adopt, we did not appear much in public; but having procured the Consul’s permission to reside in a house once belonging to the Portuguese consulate, we removed there in order to prepare ourselves for our outfit. I furnished myself with a horse and the greater part of my equipments, Mr. Ritchie not possessing sufficient funds for that purpose.
When presented to the Bashaw, it was thought absolutely necessary, by way of adding consequence and respectability to the mission, that I should be styled captain. I was therefore introduced as a Rais, or commander of a ship of war. Had I been supposed to have held an inferior rank, my reception by the great man would not have been so flattering, there being no intermediate gradation known in that country.
On the 5th of December, 1818, having accepted an invitation to pass the evening at the house of the Sheikh el Bled, or Governor of the town, we sent for an old barber to shave our heads; and our beards (which we had suffered to grow, and which now made a respectable appearance), were put in order for the occasion.
Our costume was that of the better class of Tripolines, who have two kinds of dresses; the one long, and worn chiefly by elderly men and persons of great consequence; the other short, and worn generally. For the information of future travellers, I shall enumerate the different articles of clothing.
Short Dress.
Sidrea.—A waistcoat fitting tight to the body, without any opening in front, having only holes for the neck and arms. It is pulled on in the same manner as the Guernsey frock used by seamen.
Farmela is a second waistcoat, open in front, and having broad gold lace and buttons, but no button-holes. It hangs over the sidrea.
Zibboon.—A jacket, the sleeves of which are embroidered. These first three dresses are confined round the waist by the band of the trowsers, which come outside them. A broad belt of silk or gold is then passed round the body. Over the jacket is an embroidered waistcoat without sleeves, called
Bidrïah.—All these dresses may be of different colours, the most brilliant and gaudy being chiefly in request. On walking out, a hooded cloak of very finely spun white wool is thrown over all, and on great occasions a cloth one of the same form, bordered with rich gold lace, is used. This cloak is called Bornouse. The trowsers are immense, and of silk or cloth, according to the pleasure of the wearer.