Engraved under the direction of A. Arrowsmith.

London, Published by John Murray, 50 Albemarle Strt. March, 1821.

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TRAVELS
FROM
TRIPOLI TO MOURZOUK.

CHAPTER I.

The Author’s Departure from Malta — Arrival at Tripoli — Character of Mohammed el Mukni, Bey of Fezzan — Equipment of Mr. Ritchie and the Author — Costume of the Natives of Tripoli — Character of the Marāboots, and Celebration of their annual Festival — The Natives of Tripoli — Their Habits, Customs, &c. — Public Baths — Punishments — Costumes of the Women — Tripoline Marriages and Funerals — Funeral of the Bashaw’s Grand-daughter — Resignation of M. Dupont — Journey to the Gharian Mountains and Benioleed, in Company with Mr. Ritchie — General Appearance of the Country — Arrival at the Gharian Mountains — Visit to the Sheikh — Short Account of the Passes — Roman Tomb — Castle of Gharian — Distressed State of Usadena — Account of the People of Gharian — Set out for Benioleed, through the gravelly Desert — Arrival at Benioleed — Character of the Inhabitants — Its Population — Description of the Arabs — Their Religion, Manners, Habits, &c.

IN the month of September, 1818, Mr. Ritchie, a gentleman of great science and ability, employed by the British government on a mission to the interior of Africa, arrived at Malta from Marseilles, attended by M. Dupont, a Frenchman in his pay, whom he had engaged for the purpose of collecting and preparing objects of natural history. It was understood that Captain Marryat, of the Royal Navy, was also to have accompanied Mr. Ritchie; but that circumstances had occurred which induced that gentleman to relinquish his intention of joining the mission. Soon after Mr. Ritchie’s arrival in Malta, I was fortunate enough to become acquainted with him, and hearing him express his disappointment at having failed to obtain Captain Marryat as his companion on the proposed expedition, I ventured to offer my best endeavours to supply his place, and although conscious that I had but little talent to boast, I yet hoped that the zeal by which I was actuated would in some degree make amends for my deficiencies in other respects. Mr. Ritchie, without hesitation, accepted my proposal, and in consequence lost no time in applying to Admiral Sir C. V. Penrose, Commander-in-Chief in the Mediterranean, to solicit the necessary leave for my quitting the Albion. Sir C. Penrose, in the kindest and most flattering manner, acceded to the request, and immediately wrote in my favour to the Lords of the Admiralty, to obtain permission for me to belong to the mission. Mr. Ritchie in the meantime occupied himself in making preparations for his departure; and, as an addition to his small party, engaged a ship-wright from the dockyard, Malta, named John Belford (who, as well as myself, was a volunteer), to accompany him. His arrangements thus made, Mr. Ritchie, on the 10th October, sailed for Tripoli in the Admiral’s schooner, leaving me behind, anxiously awaiting an answer from England to the application made for me. I employed this period of suspense in acquiring the Arabic alphabet, and in otherwise preparing myself for the object in view. On 19th November the wished for permission arrived, and on November 21st I sailed from Malta in the tender for Tripoli, at which place I arrived on the 25th of November, 1818. I found Mr. Ritchie still there, and likely to remain sometime longer. He was residing in the house of the British consul, Colonel Warrington, who received me most hospitably, and invited me to take up my quarters under his roof. Mr. Ritchie’s intention being to proceed to Mourzouk, مرزوك the capital of Fezzan فزّان with the Sultan of that country, his motions were to be regulated by the departure of this person, who, as we learned, was about to take with him a large body of men, for the purpose of waging war on the inhabitants of Waday, واداي (the Borgoo of Brown) which is to the southward and eastward of Fezzan; but as the people of Tripoli were by no means alert in coming forward, and as the Bashaw did not appear much inclined to compel them, no just idea could be formed as to the probable time of our setting off.

Mohammed el Mukni محمد المكني who at Tripoli is called the Bey of Fezzan, (but who takes the title of sultan on entering his own territories), is a man of about fifty years of age, of a fine martial appearance, and of great personal strength; but withal of an insatiable ambition and excessive avarice. He was one of the chief supporters and friends of the Bashaw during the reign of his father, and was afterwards of considerable assistance to him in quelling the disturbances which took place on his usurping the throne. Mukni was at this time in great favour, and considered as a person of much consequence. After his father’s death he became Bey el Noba, or collector of the Bashaw’s tribute from the Sultan of Fezzan, and went thither annually to receive it. Though the tribute was trifling, the office of Bey el Noba was held of great importance. It was while acting in this capacity that Horneman accompanied him to Fezzan. Mukni’s frequent visits to that country gave him opportunities of ascertaining that the sum paid as the tribute was but a very small part of the immense gains of the reigning Sultan; and having once determined on getting the kingdom into his own hands, he soon found means to influence the Bashaw to permit his removing the reigning family, under pretence that such a change would be for the Bashaw’s sole emolument. In 1811, therefore, he took a body of men by the Gharian mountains, and succeeded in reaching Mourzouk undiscovered. The detail of his proceedings would be wholly uninteresting; suffice it to say, that his ambitious views were fully accomplished. He caused the Sultan and his brother to be strangled, as well as the principal Mamluke and his two eldest sons; and pretending that it was unsafe to leave Mourzouk immediately after these acts of cruelty and injustice, he had the address to persuade the Bashaw to appoint him his viceroy, promising to increase the tribute to 15,000 dollars annually, whereas that of the former Sultan did not exceed 5000. Having thus established himself, he waged war on all his defenceless neighbours, and annually carried off 4000 or 5000 slaves. From one of these slave-hunts into Kanem he had just returned to Tripoli, with a numerous body of captives and many camels, and was, in consequence, in the highest favour with the Bashaw.