Fig. 120.—Diagonal Ribs for Vertical or Battened Siding.
The lining of a Balloon Frame adds immensely to its strength, particularly so if put on diagonally; it may be done outside or inside, though on the whole the inside is preferable. If done outside, it should be carried over the sill and nailed to it; the sill being wider than the studding, in order to get a larger bearing on the masonry, and the floor joists being in the way, does not admit of inside lining being put on in the same manner.
A first-class Balloon Frame should be lined, if for vertical siding, outside the studding—if horizontal siding is used, line inside; it makes the frame stiffer and the building warmer. Some line diagonally, say from centre next the first floor towards extreme upper corners both ways; others line one side diagonally in one direction, and the other in an opposite direction. This makes assurance of strength doubly sure. If lined inside, nail perpendicular lath to the lining 16 inches from centres, and on this lath horizontally for plastering.
Fig. 121.—Showing lengthwise and crosswise manner of tying frame.
The principle of Balloon Framing is the true one for strength, as well as for economy. If a mechanic is employed, the Balloon Frame can be put up for forty per cent. less money than the mortice and tenon frame. If you erect a balloon frame yourself, which you can easily do without the aid of a mechanic, it costs the price of the materials and whatever value you put upon your own time.
[Fig. 121] shows the manner of attaching the flooring to gable end studding, and in those buildings in which the thrust of the rafters is in the direction of the flooring—if every third stud be bolted to the joist in the manner shown, it makes the tie equal if not superior to that in the direction of the joists.
