An Australian in China

by George Ernest Morrison

After a stay of two or three weeks in Rangoon, I went round by the British India steamer to Calcutta. Ill fortune awaited me here. The night after my arrival I was laid down with remittent fever, and a few days later I nearly died. The reader will, I am sure, pardon me for obtruding this purely personal matter. But, as I opened this book with a testimony of gratitude to the distinguished surgeon who cut a spear point from my body, where nine months before it had been thrust by a savage in New Guinea, so should I be sorry to close this narrative without recording a word of thanks to those who befriended me in Calcutta.

I was a stranger, knowing only two men in all Calcutta; but they were friends in need, who looked after me during my illness with the greatest kindness. A leading doctor of Calcutta attended me, and treated me with unremitting attention and great skill. To Mr. John Bathgate and Mr. Maxwell Prophit and to Dr. Arnold Caddy I owe a lasting debt of gratitude. And what shall I say of that kind nurse—dark of complexion, but most fair to look upon—whose presence in the sick room almost consoled me for being ill? Bless her dear heart! Even hydrochlorate of quinine tasted sweet from her fingers.

The End.

---

INDEX.

Adridge, Dr., of Ichang, [10]
d'Amade, Capt., in Yunnan, [150]
Ancestral worship, [67]
Anderson, Dr. J., cited, [274], [277]
Anpien, [79]
Anti-foreign riots, [9], [54], [268]
Arsenal in Yunnan, [175]
Augustine mission, [6]
Baber, E. C., cited, [51], [90], [239], [267];
in Yunnan, [149];
in Bhamo, [285];
on distances, [187]
Ball, Dyer, cited, [113], [224]
Baller, Rev. F. W., cited, [113]
Banks and banking, [95], [96], [163], [164]
Barrow, Sir John, cited, [101], [110], [191]
Béraud, Père, of Suifu, [63], [65]
Bhamo (Singai), [279-287]
Bible Christian mission, in Chaotong, [99];
in Tongchuan, [121]
Blakiston, Capt., cited, [173]
Blodget, Rev. Dr., cited, [123]
Boell, M., of Le Temps, in Yunnan, [150]
Bonvalot, G., in Yunnan, [149]
Bridges, some notable, [26], [83], [85], [118], [186], [233], [240], [242]
Broomhall, B., cited, [66], [67]
Browne, Col. Horace, [246], [267], [268]
Bugs in China and Spain, [55], [56]
Burdon, Bishop, cited, [123]
Cameron, Dr., missionary traveller, [213]
Cantonese, [207];
in Australia, [222-224]
Caravans of cotton, [226], [271]
Carruthers, A. G. H., assistant commissioner of customs, Chungking, [51]
Cash currency of China, [161], [162]
Chairen, the policeman of China, [77], [190]
Chang-chen Nien, Brigadier-General, Tengyueh, [181], [246]
Chang Chi Tung, the viceroy, [3], [4]
Chang-show-hsien, [33]
Chang Yan Miun, the giant of Yunnan, [184], [185]
Chaochow, [200]
Chaotong, the city of, [97-116];
its converts, [178]
Chehki, [137]
Ch'en, merchant prince, [29], [30]
Chennan-chow, [192]
Chentu, city, [62];
river, [62]
Chiang, telegraph clerk, Yunnan, [168]
China Inland Mission, in Hankow, [6];
in Wanhsien, [27-29];
in Chungking, [49];
in Suifu, [65], [73], [75];
in Yunnan, [177];
in Tali, [213-216];
results in Yunnan province, [178];
in China generally, [180];
its teaching, [65-71]
Chinese, in Australia, [222-224];
in Burma, [288-290]
Chinese, avarice, [79];
benevolence, [29];
beauty of women, [13];
cards, visiting, [181], [182];
characters, reverence for, [170];
courtesy, [255];
desire to have children, [197], [198];
etiquette, [230];
friendliness, [140];
good nature, [117];
gratitude, [27], [28];
inaccuracy, [99];
indifference to pain, [104],
to sound, [74], [169];
irreverence, [195];
justification by works, [169];
kindness to children, [113], [290];
laughter, [195];
love at first sight, [153-155];
politeness, [196], [197], [201], [255];
respect for old age, [117], [198];
thoughtfulness, [189];
true felicity, [180];
wonderful memory, [167], [168]
Chipatzu, [22]
Chueh, telegraph operator and interpreter, [248]
Chungking, city of, [34-39]
Chuhsing-fu, [187]
Clarke, Mr. G. W., missionary traveller, [213]
Clarke, Marcus, cited, [210]
Coal on the Yangtse, [32]
Coffins in China, [92], [137], [265]
Colquhoun, A. R., in Yunnan, [150]
Conversion, instances of rapid, [179]
Converts, in China, [5];
Wanhsien, [28];
Chungking, [49];
Suifu, [65];
Chaotong, [99];
Tongchuan, [121];
Yunnan City, [177];
Yunnan Province, [178], [179];
Talifu, [214]
Cooke, G. W., cited, [46], [176]
Coolies' enormous loads, [90], [91]
Couchman, Major, cited, [274];
in Rangoon, [288]
Crockery, [118], [119]
Customs, China Inland (likin-barriers), [21], [48], [97], [118], [242], [272], [277]
Customs, Imperial Maritime, [13], [25], [35-38]
Davenport, Dr. Cecil, medical missionary, Chungking, [49]
Davies, Capt. H. R., Bhamo, [285]
Davis, Sir J. F., cited, [57]
Dedeken, Père, of Kuldja, [150]
De Gorostarza, Père, Provicaire in Yunnan, [172]
De Guignes, cited, [140]
Distances in China, [141], [278]
Doctors in China, [107-110]; mule-doctor, [145]
Doolittle, Rev. Justus, cited, [69], [130], [170]
Doudart de la Grée, in Yunnan, [149]
Douglas, R. K., cited, [127]
Dudgeon, Dr. J., cited, [112], [130]
Du Halde, cited, [90], [108], [176]
Dymond, Rev. Frank, missionary, Chaotong, [98], [99]
Eclipse of the Sun, [125], [126]
Edkins, Rev. Dr. J., cited, [130]
Eitel, Rev. Dr. E. J., cited, [129]
Excoffier, Père, of Yunnan, [146]
Famine in Chaotong, [99];
in Tongchuan, [127];
on the way to Yunnan, [137-144]
Fan-yien-tsen, [82]
Farrar, Ven. Archdeacon, cited, [191]
Feng-hsiang, Gorge, [21], [30]
Fengshui-ling, [240]
Feng-tu-hsien, [33]
Fenouil, Monseigneur, of Yunnan, [171], [172]
Fraser, Consul E. H., Chungking, [45]
Fuchou, [33]
Fungshui, [157], [175]
Fung-yen-tung, [205]
Fu-to-kuan, fort of, [52]
Ganai, Shan town, [254-256]
Gates of a Chinese city, [174]
Geary, H. Grattan, cited, [43]
Giles, H. A., cited, [129]
Gill, Mr. Hope, missionary, Wanhsien, [27]
Gill, Capt. W., cited, [17], [90]
Girls in China, [13], [14], [139], [140];
bought, [155];
sold, [100], [101];
price of, [100]
Goitre, [101], [145], [155], [185];
its prevalence, [227], [228]
Gold, on the Yangtse, [23];
in Yunnan, [158-160]
Graham, Mr., missionary, Yunnan, [177], [219]
Grosvenor Mission in Yunnan, [149]
Guinness, Miss G., cited, [213]
Haas, M., [42-44]
Hankow, the city of, [3-8]
Hanyang, [3]
Heads of criminals, [192];
of dacoits, [273], [274]
Hirth, Dr. F., Commissioner of Customs, [40]
Hobson, H. E., cited, [31]
Hokiangpu, [222]
Hongmuho, [270], [275-277]
Hosie, A. M., cited, [17];
in Yunnan, [149]
Hsiakwan, [200], [219], [221]
Hsintan rapids, [15]
Huanglien-pu, [226];
goitre at, [228]
Huc, Abbé, cited, [176]
Iangkai, [144]
Ichang, [9]
Infanticide in China, [129], [130];
in Chaotong, [101];
in Tongchuan, [129]
Inquirers at Wanhsien, [28];
Yunnan, [177];
Tali, [215]
Iremonger, Capt. R. G., Nampoung, [275]
Jensen, Mr. C., in Yunnan, [147];
experiences in China, [156], [157];
on distances, [187];
to construct line to Burma, [238]
Jesuit Missionaries in China, [123], [173], [176]
John, Rev. Dr. Griffith, cited, [130]
Kachins ("protected barbarians"), [254], [259], [270], [273], [274]
Kanhliang, Shan chief, [245]
Kaw Hong Beng, Private Secretary to Viceroy, [4], [5]
Kiangti, [117]
Kong-shan, [141]
Kueichow on the Yangtse, [18]
Kuhtsing, its converts, [178]
Kung Chao-yuan, Minister to Great Britain, [73]
Kung-t'-an-ho, [33]
Kweichou-fu, [21]
Lacouperie, Terrien de, cited, [257]
Lanchihsien, [60]
Laokai, [148], [159]
Laowatan river, [79]; town, [85]
Lay, G. T., cited, [13], [45]
Leitoupo, [139]
Lenz, F. G., in Yunnan, [150], [151]
Li Han Chang, in Yunnan, [149]
Li Hung Chang, [72], [149];
on opium, [46], [190]
Ling chi, [69], [231], [232]
Li Pi Chang, Telegraph Manager, Yunnan, [151-153], [181], [184]
Li-Sieh-tai, of Tengyueh, [246]
Little, A. J., cited, [13], [122];
in Chungking, [51]
Little river, [40], [44], [52]
Liu, Colonel, of Chinese Boundary Commission, [244], [245], [255]
Liu, the Viceroy, [72]
Lockhart, Dr. W., cited, [28], [130]
Loh-Ta-Jen, Chentai at Ichang, [9]
London Missionary Society, Hankow, [6];
Chungking, [49]
Lorain, Père, Procureur in Chungking, [50]
Luchow, [60]
Lu-feng-hsien, [186]
Luho, [187]
MacCarthy, Justin, cited, [210]
MacGowan, Rev. Dr. D. J., cited, [130]
Maire, Père, of Tongchuan, [133]
Mander, S. S., cited, [47], [191]
Manyuen (Manwyne), [264-269]
Marco Polo, cited, [238];
in Yunnan, [149]
Margary, A. R., cited, [266];
in Yunnan, [149], [246];
his murder, [264-269]
Marks, Rev. Dr. J. E., [289], [290]
Martin, Rev. Dr. W. A. P., cited, [67], [170]
Martini, M. (D.S.P.), in Bhamo, [285]
Mason, Rev. G. L., cited, [28]
Mateer, Rev. C. W., cited, [28], [140]
Meadows, T. T., cited, [113], [154]
Medhurst, Rev. W. H., cited, [87] (wrongly written "Meadows"), [197]
Medhurst, Sir W. H., cited, [5], [45], [108]
Medicines in China, [83], [107-110]
Mekong river, [221], [233], [234]
Mencius, cited, [198]
Methodist Episcopalian Mission, [40], [54]
Michie, A., cited, [124]
Missionaries, success in China, [5];
numbers in Hankow, [6]
Missions Étrangères de Paris, [6], [64], [65], [105], [122], [146], [171]
Mi Tsang Gorge, [17]
Mohammedans, and opium, [112];
in Chaotong, [113], [114];
near Tongchuan, [128];
in Tali, [216];
insurrection, [145], [185], [187], [203];
superiority, [216];
the milkman, [217]
Momien (Tengyueh), the city of, [243-249]
Money, changing, [95];
remittance of, [95]
Morgan, C. L., cited, [66], [70]
Morphia, imported, [48], [49]
Moule, Bishop, cited, [130]
Moutot, Père, Provicaire in Suifu, [63], [65]
Muirhead, Rev. W., cited, [123]
Mungtze, [148-150], [159]
Myothit (Santien), [278], [279]
Nampoung, encampment, [270], [275-278]
Nantien, fort of, [250], [251]
Opium, imports and exports of, [46-48];
in Hankow, [3];
in Chungking, [45];
in Suifu, [72], [73];
demoralising influence of, [41];
—— refuge, Chungking, [41];
—— ports, [33];
poisoning by, [111], [112], [212];
my chairbearers and, [94];
my coolie and, [219];
appeal for suppression, [190], [191]
d'Orleans, Prince Henri, cited, [148];
in Yunnan, [149]
Parricide in China, [69]
Pearson, Prof. C. H., cited, [186], [224]
Peking Gazette, cited, [53], [169], [231]
Pen, telegraph manager, Tengyueh, [244]
Pêng Yü-lin, high commissioner, cited, [192]
Pidgin-English, [3], [9], [18]
Piercy, Rev. G., cited, [191]
Ping-shan-pa, [13]
Pits for the dead, [133]
Plague, bubonic, in Yunnan, [213]

Pollard, Rev. S., missionary, Tongchuan, [121]
Poppy, [37], [57], [78], [84], [118], [142];
surreptitiously grown, [46]
Post-offices, [95], [96]
Prisons in China, [209-211]
Punishments in China, [103], [104], [136], [239]
Pupêng, [193]
Pupiao, [236];
my men die at, [281]
Reade, Charles, cited, [209]
Reed, Miss M., cited, [191]
Reid, Rev. G., cited, [41], [192]
"Rice Christians," [6]
Roberts, Rev. Mr., missionary, Bhamo, [286]
Rockhill, W. W., cited, [280], [281]
St. Thomas, visit to Suifu, [65]
Salween river, [237-240]
Santa, Shan town, [259-263]
Schehleh, [272], [277]
Scott, J. G., cited, [287], [289]
Sengki-ping, [84]
Settee, fort of, [274], [275]
Shachiaokai, [192]
Shang-kwan, [204]
Shans, [240], [252], [254], [256-269]
Shih-pao-chai, [32]
Shuichai, [234]
Shweli river, [242]
Silver in Yunnan, [161], [163];
in Tengyueh, [249]
Singai (Bhamo), [218]
Sladen, Major, [267]
Small feet, [14], [101], [153]
Small-pox, [212], [213]
Smith, Rev. A. H., cited, [41], [269]
Smith, Rev. John, missionary, Talifu, [202], [209], [214], [219]
Smith, Mr. Stanley P., his rapid conversion of a Chinaman, [279]
Soldiers, their weapons, [234], [241], [249];
fierceness of aspect, [263];
courage, [271]
"Squeezing" in China, [151], [152]
Stead, W. T., cited, [152]
Suicide by opium, [111];
land of, [111], [112]
Suifu, the city of, [62-75]
Sutherland, Rev. Dr. A., cited, [123], [173]
Swinburne, A. C., cited, [14]
Szechuen, "country of the clouds," [82];
population, [186];
contrasted with Yunnan, [85-88];
Catholic stronghold, [64]
Taipingkai, Shan town, [263]
Taiping-pu, [226]
Taiping river, [246], [250], [252], [258], [278], [279]
Tak-wan-hsien, [92], [94], [96]
Tak-wan-leo, [92]
Talichao, [234]
Talifu, the city of, [202-219];
its converts, [178]
Tanto, [82]
Taoshakwan, [86]
Taoūen, [116]
Tawantzu, [92]
Taylor, Rev. Dr. J. Hudson, cited, [46], [67], [68], [70], [179];
on opium, [46];
on ancestral worship, [67];
Chinese in lake of fire, [67], [68]
Tchih-li-pu, [86]
Telegraph, in Yunnan, [147];
in Tali, [208];
in Yungchang, [234];
in Tengyueh, [243-248];
system of telegraphing Chinese characters, [166-168];
telegraphic transfers, [95], [159]
Tengyueh (Momien), the city of, [243-249]
"Term question," [122], [123]
Theatre in Tengyueh, [246], [247]
Tommé, M., in Yunnan, [150]
Tongchuan, the city of, [120-134];
its converts, [178]
Tonquin, [148], [149]
Tragedy of the Tali valley, [220], [221]
Tremberth, Rev. Mr., missionary, Chaotong, [101]
Tsen Yü-ying, the cruel Viceroy, [267]
Tung-lo-hsia, [35]
Turner, Rev. F. Storrs, cited, [46]
Tu Wen Hsiu, the Mohammedan Sultan, [203]
Ullathorne, Bishop, cited, [210]
Vial, Père, of Yunnan, [150]
Voltaire, cited, [173]
Von Richthofen, cited, [90]
Wanhsien, the city of, [24-31]
Warren, Consul Pelham, of Hankow, [8]
Warry, Mr., Chinese adviser to the Burmese Government, [229], [261], [285]
Wherry, Rev. J., cited, [123]
Widows, virtuous, [52], [53], [78]
Williams, Rev. Dr. S. Wells, cited, [47], [110], [126], [197], [267]
Williamson, Rev. Dr. A. W., cited, [70], [223]
Wong, banker in Yunnan, [163-166]
Wong-wen-shao, the Viceroy, [180], [181]
Woodin, Rev. S. F., cited, [66], [179]
Woolston, Miss S. H., cited, [14]
Wuchang, [3]
Wuntho Sawbwa, [245], [253], [254]
Wushan Gorge, [20]
Wushan-hsien, [20]
Yangki river, [221]
"Yang kweitze", [18], [25], [228], [229]
Yanglin, [145]
Yangpi, [224]
Yang Yu-ko, Imperialist general, [203], [204]
Yeh, of the Chinese Boundary Commission, [224]
Yehtan rapid, [19]
Yenwanshan, [193]
Ying-wu-kwan, [193]
Yuenchuan, [60]
Yungchang, the city of, [234], [235]
Yunnan, the city of, [147-183];
its converts, [177];
the province of, [85-88];
its converts, [178]
Yunnanhsien, [196]
Yunnan Yeh, [193]