Fig. 20.—Setting line and grade for house sewer. To the observer at A the top edges of the grade boards appear as one; the half-driven nails are set to line.
House sewer.—The length will vary with the slope of the ground and position of buildings, well, and distribution field. Fifty to 100 feet is a fair length; a greater is still more sanitary. Wherever possible the house sewer should be laid straight in line and grade. [Figure 20] shows how this work may be done. Suppose the distance from A to E be 100 feet; that grade boards be set 25 feet apart crosswise of the trench at A, B, C, D, and E; that the ground at A be 4 feet lower than at E; that the top of the sewer be 2½ feet below the surface of the ground at A and 4½ feet below the surface of the ground at E; the fall of the sewer between A and E is 2 feet (4 + 2½ - 4½ = 2). If the fall in 100 feet be 2 feet, in 25 feet it is one-fourth as much, or 6 inches. Hence, grade board B is 6 inches higher than grade board A, C is 6 inches higher than B, and so on to E. The top edges when all the boards are set with a carpenter's level and fastened in position should be in line. The grade thus established may be any convenient height above the top of the proposed sewer, and the measuring stick used to grade the pipe is cut accordingly. This height is usually a certain number of whole feet. Fixing the line of the sewer is a mere matter of settling nails in the top edges of boards A and E directly over the center of the proposed sewer and tightly stretching a fish line or grade cord; nails should be set where the cord crosses boards B, C, and D.
If the cellar or basement contains plumbing fixtures, the house sewer should enter 1 to 2 feet below the cellar floor. If all plumbing fixtures are on the floors above, the sewer may enter at no greater depth than necessary to insure protection from frost outside the cellar wall. Digging the trench and laying the pipe should begin at the tank or lower end. The large end of the pipes, called the hub, should face uphill, and the barrel of each pipe should have even bearing throughout its length. Sufficient earth should be removed from beneath the hubs to permit the joints to be made in a workmanlike manner.
The house sewer may be vitrified salt-glazed sewer pipe, concrete pipe, or cast-iron soil pipe. The latter, with poured and calked lead joints makes a permanently water-tight and root-proof sewer, which always should be used where the vicinity of a well must be passed; 4, 5, or 6-inch pipe may be used, depending mainly on the fall and in less degree on the quantity of sewage discharged. As a measure of economy the 4-inch size is favored for iron pipe. If vitrified pipe is used, either the 5 or 6 inch size is preferable, as these sizes are made straighter than the 4-inch size and are less liable to obstruction. Of the two the 5-inch size is preferable. The fall in 100 feet should never be less than 2 feet for 4-inch size, 1½ feet for 5-inch size, 1 foot for 6-inch size.
[Figure 21] shows methods of making good joints. A, B, C, D, E, F, and G are ordinary sewer pipe joints; H, is cast-iron soil pipe.
Fig. 21.—How to make good joints. See text for directions and specifications.
A shows the use of a yarning iron to pack a small strand of jute into the joint space, thus centering the pipes and preventing the joint filler running inside. The joint surfaces should be free of dirt and oil. The jute is cut in lengths to go around the pipe; a small strand is soaked in neat Portland cement grout, then twisted and wrapped around the small end of the pipe to be pushed into the hub of the last pipe laid. After the pipe is pushed home the jute is packed evenly to a depth of not over ½ inch, leaving about 1½ inches for the joint filler. Old hemp rope or oakum dipped in liquid cement or paper may be used in place of jute, and the packing may be done with a thin file or piece of wood.
B shows the use of a rubber mitten or glove to force Portland cement mortar into the joint space. The mortar should be thoroughly and freshly mixed in the proportion of one volume of cement to one volume of clean sand and should be pressed and tamped to fill the joint completely.
C shows a section of finished joint. The fresh mortar should not be loosened or disturbed when laying the next pipe.