D shows method of pouring a joint with grout, which is quicker, cheaper, and better than using a rubber mitten. A flexible sheet-metal form or mold, oiled to prevent the grout sticking, is clamped tightly around the joint and is completely filled with grout consisting of equal parts of Portland cement and clean sand mixed dry, to which water is added to produce a creamy consistency. The pipes should not be disturbed and the form should not be removed for 24 hours.
E shows a section of grouted joint, well rounded out, strong, and tight.
F shows the use of a pipe jointer for pouring a hot filler. The pipe jointer may be an asbestos or rubber runner or collar or a piece, of garden hose clamped around the pipe leaving a small triangular opening at the top. The jointer is pressed firmly against the hub, and any small openings between the jointer and pipe are smeared with plastic clay to prevent leakage of the filler. A clay dike or funnel about 3 inches high built around the triangular opening greatly aids rapid and complete filling of the joint space. The filler may be a commercially prepared bituminous compound or molten sulphur and fine sand. The former makes a slightly elastic joint; the latter a hard unyielding joint. With good workmanship both kinds of joint are practically water-tight and root-proof, and cost about the same as cement mortar joints. The filler is heated in an iron kettle over a wood, coke, or coal fire. It should be well stirred, and when at a free running consistency should be poured with a ladle large enough to fill the joint completely at one operation. As soon as the compound cools the jointer is removed. Sulphur-sand filler is made by mixing together dry and melting equal volumes of ordinary powdered sulphur and very fine clean sand, preferably the finest quicksand. A 5-inch sewer pipe joint requires from three-tenths to nine-tenths of a pound (according to the kind of pipe) of sulphur, worth 3 to 5 cents per pound, and a like quantity of sand. From ½ to 1½ pounds of bituminous filler are required for a 5-inch pipe joint.
G shows section of finished joint.
H shows the use of a pouring ladle in making lead joints in cast-iron soil pipe. This pipe is in lengths to lay 5 feet, and the metal of the barrel is ¼ inch thick. The joint is yarned with dry jute or oakum, as described above, and is poured full with molten, soft, pig lead to be afterwards driven tightly with hammer and calking tools. About 1 pound of lead for each inch in diameter of pipe is required. Prepared cements of varying composition have proved effective,, and, as they require no calking, are economical. Among the best is a finely ground, thoroughly mixed compound of iron, sulphur, slag, and salt.
I is a home-made pipe jointer or clay roll for use in pouring molten lead. A strand of jute long enough to encircle the pipe and the ends to fold back, leaving an opening at the top, is covered with clay moistened, rolled, and worked to form a plastic rope about 1 inch in diameter. The jointer gives the very best results but must be frequently moistened and worked to keep the clay soft and pliable. The jointer shown in F is frequently used for pouring lead joints.
Obstructions in house sewers are frequent. Among the causes are broken pipes, grade insufficient to give cleansing velocities, newspaper, rags, garbage, or other solids in the sewage, congealing of grease in pipes and main running traps (house sewer traps), and poor joint construction whereby rootlets grow into the sewer and choke it. Good grade and good construction, with particular care given to the joints, will avert or lessen these troubles. The sewer should be perfectly straight, with the interior of the joints scraped or swabbed smooth. When the joint-filling material has set, the hollows beneath the hubs should be filled with good earth free of stones, well tamped or puddled in place. It is important that like material be used at the sides of the pipe and above it for at least 1 foot. The back filling may be completed with scraper or plow. No running trap should be placed on the house sewer, because it is liable to become obstructed and it prevents free movement of air through the sewer and soil stack. Conductors or drains for rain or other clean water should never connect with the house sewer, but should discharge into a watercourse or other outlet.
Where obstruction of a house sewer occurs, use of some of the simple tools shown in [figure 22] may remedy the trouble. It is not likely that farmers will have these appliances, except possibly some of the augers; but some of them can be made at home or by a blacksmith, and most of them should be obtainable for temporary use from a well-organized town or city sewer department. The purpose of the several tools shown is indicated in the notation.
The tank.—The septic tank should be in an isolated location at least 50 to 100 feet from any dwelling. This is not always possible, because of flat ground, but in many such instances reasonable distance and fall may be secured by raising both the house sewer and tank and embanking them with earth. Cases are known where tanks adjoin cellar or basement walls and the top of the tank is used as a doorstep; in other cases tanks have been constructed within buildings. Such practices are bad. It is difficulty to construct an absolutely water-tight masonry tank, and still more difficult to make it proof against the passage of sewage odors.