Perfumes and their preparation

by George William Askinson

Olive oil	2¼ oz.
Soap	2¼ oz.
Wax	2¼ oz.
Spermaceti	2¼ oz.
Sweet almonds	4 lb.
Oil of rose	150 grains.
Rose water	4 qts.
Alcohol	1 pint.

Pistachio Milk (Lait de Pistaches).

Soap.	2¼ oz.
Olive oil	2¼ oz.
Wax	2¼ oz.
Spermaceti	2¼ oz.
Pistachio nuts	14 oz.
Oil of neroli	¾ oz.
Orange-flower water	6 qts.
Alcohol	1 qt.

D. Cold-Creams and Lip Salves.

In the main they resemble in their composition the emulsions and vegetable milks, but differ by their thick consistence which renders them suitable for being rubbed into the skin. Cold-creams are really salves perfumed with one of the well-known odors which give them their names. Fat forms the basis of these mixtures and gives them their hygienic effect, as it imparts fulness and softness to the skin. Every well-made cold-cream should have the consistence of recently congealed wax and should yield to the pressure of the finger like pomatum. It should be noted that the addition of very thick glycerin will increase the effect of the cold-cream and improve its fine transparent appearance; but this substance must be added with great care, otherwise the mass will not possess the required firmness.

In making cold-cream, a mixture of wax, spermaceti, and expressed almond oil must be combined with an aromatic water and an essential oil. The first part of the operation is easy; the wax and spermaceti are melted at the lowest possible temperature, and the almond oil is added under continual stirring. It is more difficult to unite the other substances with this base; the aromatic water is admitted in a thin stream under vigorous stirring (or whipping, or churning), and when it forms a uniform mass with the contents of the mortar the remaining substances are stirred in and the still fluid mass is poured into the vessels intended for it, and allowed to congeal.

Cold-creams are usually sold in tasteful porcelain jars or vases. To guard against rancidity of the mass, the vessels are closed either with ground stoppers or with corks covered with tin foil. The essential oils should be added last, when the mass has cooled to the congealing-point; if added before, too much of them is lost by evaporation.

We give below several approved formulas for the preparation of some favorite cold-creams, and repeat that new varieties can be produced by introducing any desired odor into the composition.

Glycerin Cold-Cream A.

Expressed oil of almond	2 lb.
Wax	2½ oz.
Spermaceti	2½ oz.
Glycerin	7 oz.
Oil of bergamot	¾ oz.
Oil of lemon	¾ oz.
Oil of geranium	¾ oz.
Oil of neroli	150 grains.
Oil of cinnamon	150 grains.
Rose water	1 lb.