Perfumes and their preparation

by George William Askinson

not to be confounded with the oil of Syringa or German jasmine (Philadelphus coronarius), is colorless or yellowish and has a very strong, almost narcotic odor. It is one of the most valuable and at the same time most expensive aromatic substances employed in perfumery. Genuine oil of jasmine can be obtained only from Southern France at very high prices. What is usually sold as “oil of jasmine” is a fixed oil impregnated with the aroma of jasmine.

Oil of Cherry-Laurel

is not used as such in perfumery; at most cherry-laurel water may be employed. But as this has the odor of oil of bitter almond and as the presence of some prussic acid, on account of which the officinal cherry-laurel water is used, is of no value to the perfumer and is, in fact, undesirable, owing to its poisonous quality, we substitute in all cases a corresponding quantity of oil of bitter almond for cherry-laurel water.

Oil of Culilaban (Oleum Culilavani)

is light brown, somewhat viscid; the odor recalls that of the oils of cinnamon, sassafras, and clove. It has been used for scenting soap.

Oil of Caraway (Oleum Cari)

is light yellow and has an aromatic odor and burning taste. In perfumery it is used only for very cheap odors and for scenting soap; it finds its chief application in the manufacture of liqueurs.

Oil of Lavender (Oleum Lavandulæ).

This oil is of great importance to the perfumer and is imported in unsurpassed quality from England (Mitcham); it is light yellow, has a burning sharp taste, and is exceedingly sensitive to light and air, under the action of which it loses its refreshing odor in a very brief time and acquires a common smell recalling that of turpentine.

The buyer of this oil should take care to secure the true oil of lavender (from Lavandula vera); for the oil of spike-lavender is sold under the same name. This, prepared from Lavandula Spica, has a similar odor to the genuine, but cannot be compared with it in delicacy. For this reason, too, the difference in the price between the two is considerable. True English oil of lavender costs ten times as much as oil of spike-lavender. The English brand of the true oil is of so excellent a quality that it brings four or five times as much as the best French oil, which is sold under the name of huile de lavande des Alpes. Yet during the last decade or so the French oil of lavender flowers has become so much improved in quality that it has become a serious rival to the Mitcham oil.