By the former journey, too, the annoyance of three custom-house visitations is reduced to one; and, for those who have no particular wish to cross the island, a two days' journey in diligence is avoided—which journey is often unsafe and unpleasant in winter, on account of the heavy snows on the mountain passes near Corte.
As regards expenses, Corsica is by no means a dear country. About nine francs a day will pay for all expenses of food and lodgings—sometimes less; and, as a rule, the better hotels are quite equally inexpensive with the wretched country inns.
As there are no railways, travelling, of course, has to be done exclusively by driving; and there are no comfortable vehicles to be found elsewhere than at Ajaccio and Bastia. At the latter place, their number is extremely limited.
A nice open carriage, with hood, and pair of horses, is charged at the rate of twenty francs a day, and two francs a day at least is expected by the driver. Thus, whilst on a driving tour, if shared, as it usually is, with a companion, the travellers' daily expenses will be a little more than doubled, or about twenty francs, including everything.
This, I think, is a far cheaper rate of travelling than in any other European country; besides being a most agreeable and efficient mode of seeing the beauties of nature.
Corsicans are first-rate drivers; and their steeds, though unsightly, very sure-footed.
The climate is delicious in early spring, and the flowers and trees in their glory in April and May. The lowland towns become hot and unhealthy for visitors, in June, if not before; but for those who do not mind roughing it, or who are anxious for sport, the higher villages and mountain forests afford health and enjoyment all the summer.
The east coast of the island is to be avoided by travellers. It has few beauties to offer, and is rife with malarious fever nine months out of the twelve. Corsican fever is remarkably unpleasant and clinging, and has been known to return year after year to its victim, ending in dropsy.
Consumptive patients, coming for the winter months to Ajaccio, will find every comfort there; but those who come to see the island must not be too particular regarding the luxuries or even necessaries of life.
A good dinner at sunset (without garlic and nicely cooked), they will obtain without difficulty, even at the tiniest villages; but that will probably be the only eatable meal in the day,—and sour bread and coffee for breakfast, and sour bread and cheese for lunch, will leave them in a condition to appreciate its delights.