As regards the cleanliness or uncleanliness of the accommodation in the country inns, the opinions of tourists in Corsica differ so widely that one is slow to pronounce a strong verdict upon the subject.
I can only say that we found few pleasant, and many disgusting, on this point; but I must add that this opinion is considered uncharitable by more than one friend who has travelled as much in the country as we did.
At the Ajaccio, Corte, and Sartene hotels, we found perfectly clean accommodation, and the same could be said of the village inns at Propriano, Vivario, Evisa, Ghisoni, and Belgodere; Bonifacio was not bad, and Carghese might have been worse in some respects.
Enough has been said to warn the traveller from visiting Bocognano or Calvi; and Zicavo and Solenzara bear likewise an exceedingly bad reputation.
At Propriano, Vivario, or Evisa, a pleasant stay might be made. Propriano is on the sea level, and has not much to recommend it except its sea, its shells, and its lovely views; but Vivario and Evisa are situated in the midst of exquisite mountain scenery, and would make suitable summer halting-places.
CHAPTER XVIII.
HISTORY OF CORSICA.
The history of Corsica, from the earliest times down to the middle of the eighteenth century, is an unparalleled history of bloodshed, misery, and heroism.
As far as is known, the first colonization of the island was the work of Phocæans; but, about 260 B.C., it fell into the hands of the Romans. The conquest of Corsica, even in these early days, and attempted by so formidable a power as that of Rome, was, however, no light matter; and for about one hundred years the brave little island kept her conquerors at bay.
Finally, however, she succumbed, remaining in their hands for several centuries; in fact, until the fall of the Roman Empire.
From this time until the close of the eleventh century, the story of Corsica is nothing but a series of contests, external and civil.