[256.] Pain of Strawberries.— Put 1 quart ripe strawberries into a colander, rinse off with cold water and press them through a sieve; soak 2 ounces gelatine in ½ pint cold water for 15 minutes, add ½ pint boiling water and stir over the fire till gelatine is dissolved; set aside to cool; then dissolve ¾ pound sugar in 1 pint cold water, put it over the fire with the juice of 1 lemon and boil 5 minutes; when cold add it with the gelatine to the strawberries; also add ½ cup white wine and a little cochineal; put the pain on ice till it begins to thicken; then fill it into a form with a tube in the center, cover and place for 2 or 3 hours on ice. Pains of raspberries or currants are made the same way, using no lemon.

[257.] Pain d’Ananas.— Take a jar of preserved pineapples, cut them into small dice, add ½ pint white wine and a little more sugar if necessary; add the juice of 1 lemon and 2 ounces gelatine dissolved in 1 pint water; place this on ice and stir it now and then; as soon as it begins to thicken put into a form, which set on ice for 2 or 3 hours; then serve.

[258.] Pain d’Ananas à la Parisienne.— Chose a large, ripe pineapple and pare and grate it; add 1½ cups sugar and stir until dissolved; press the pineapple through a sieve and add the juice of 4 oranges and 2 ounces gelatine dissolved in 1 pint water; place a plain form into cracked ice and pour in a few spoonfuls orange jelly; when this is hard lay the form over on its side, pour in more jelly and keep turning slowly, so that the jelly may get all over the sides and form a lining; next have some pistachio nuts or blanched almonds cut into strips and sprinkle them over the sides and bottom of form; set the pineapple mixture on ice and stir until it begins to thicken; then fill into the form, cover and let it remain for 2 or 3 hours in ice; it is then ready to serve; chop the trimmings of the pineapple fine, pour over some cold sugar syrup and let it stand 2 hours; strain, add a little dissolved gelatine and pour over the pain when sent to table.

[259.] Pain de Peches.— Take 20 large, ripe peaches and pare and quarter them; then press them through a sieve; add to this 1 pound sugar dissolved in 1 pint cold water and 2 ounces dissolved gelatine; crack the stones, remove the pits, scald in boiling water and free them from their brown skin; cut the pits in half and boil them in a little sugar syrup; add to the peach mixture ½ cup white wine and fill it into a tin form with a tube in the center; place the form on ice and let it remain till its contents begin to thicken; then stir in the peach pits and let it remain on ice 2 hours longer. Pains of apricots, cherries or plums are made the same way.

[260.] Pain à la Victoria.— Press 1 pint ripe raspberries through a sieve and mix it with 1 ounce gelatine dissolved in ½ pint water; put ¾ cup sugar into ½ pint cold water and stir until dissolved; then add it to the raspberries with a glass of white wine; place this on ice till it begins to thicken; prepare 1 quart almond blanc-mange (see Blanc-Mange); set a plain form into cracked ice and put in a layer of raspberries about an inch in thickness; let this get hard; then put in a layer of blanc-mange; after this is firm again put in raspberries, then blanc-mange; continue till all is used; let it remain on ice for 2 hours; when ready to serve turn the pain onto a round dish and garnish with fruit.

[261.] Pain de Peches à la Richelieu.— Prepare a pain the same as Pain de Peches and also 1 pint almond blanc-mange; set a plain form with a tube in the center into cracked ice and put in by degrees the blanc-mange; put it ½ inch in thickness all around on the sides and bottom of form, so that it forms a complete lining inside; then fill in the pain of peaches and let it remain on ice for 2 hours: in serving dip the form into hot water, wipe dry and turn its contents into a glass dish.

[262.] Pain de Peches à la Condé.— Pare and cut into halves 1½ dozen large, ripe peaches and boil them with their blanched pits in sugar syrup for about 10 minutes; transfer the peaches to a dish or long tin pan, wipe dry and lay them with the hollow side up; put half a pit in the center of each and pour a spoonful of jelly over each piece (the jelly should be previously stirred on ice till it begins to thicken); next set a plain form into cracked ice, pour in some plain fruit or wine jelly and keep turning the form until the inside is lined with the jelly; cover the bottom with peaches; lay them so that the pits are to the outside; then lay the remaining peaches in rows on the side of form, pour over some jelly and when firm fill up the form with bavarois aux apricots, which is prepared as follows:—Pare and cut into pieces 1½ dozen ripe apricots, lay in a dish, sprinkle over 1 cup sugar and let them stand for 2 hours; then press them through a sieve; mix the pureé with 1 teaspoonful extract of vanilla and 1½ ounces dissolved gelatine; put this on ice and stir till it begins to thicken; then carefully stir 1 pint whipped cream through it; fill the bavarois into form at once and let it remain on ice for 2 or 3 hours.

[263.] Pain de Pommes à la Condé.— Choose 15 large pippin or greening apples and pare, quarter and stew them with a little water; press them through a sieve, add 1 cup sugar and when cold mix it with 2 ounces gelatine dissolved in 1 pint water and 1 pint almond milk (prepared the same as for Blanc-Mange); place this on ice and stir till it begins to thicken; fill it into a form which has already been set into cracked ice and let it remain for 2 or 3 hours; boil the cores and peels of apples till soft; strain through a bag, return the liquor to saucepan and boil 10 minutes; then add to ½ pint of juice 1 cup sugar and boil for a few minutes; pour the syrup into a dish and set aside to cool; in serving dip the form into hot water, wipe it dry and turn the pain onto a round dish, or into a large glass dish, and pour the apple syrup over it. This pain may be made of Bartlet pears in the same manner.

[ ICE CREAMS.]

[264.] Directions for Making Ice Cream.— The implements needed are a freezer, rock salt and finely cracked ice. Ice cream freezers can be bought at any hardware store. They consist of a large wooden pail with a faucet on the side near the bottom and a freezer with a paddle inside. The cracking of the ice is best accomplished by putting it into a coarse sack and pounding it fine with a hammer or mallet. Place the freezer into the pail, put in the paddle and cover the freezer tightly. Fill the space between the pail and freezer with fine cracked ice to ⅓ its height, sprinkle over 2 handfuls salt and pack down the ice with a piece of wood, so that it may be firm all around the freezer; continue with layers of ice, salt and the packing down till the ice reaches to the edge of cover; next pour into the freezer the mixture that is to be frozen; but care should be taken not to put in too much, for the cream needs plenty of room in order to become light and smooth; cover the freezer and let it stand for 5 minutes; then commence to turn; after 10 minutes’ turning remove the cover from freezer and cut the frozen cream with a long bladed knife from the sides of can; repeat this every 10 minutes until the cream is frozen hard; then remove the paddle, even off the cream in the freezer, cover and let it stand for 10 minutes; do not draw off the water from pail until it stands above the ice and the freezer has lost its firm hold; after drawing off the water fill the space up again with cracked ice and salt; when the 10 minutes have elapsed fill the frozen cream into an ice form, cover tightly and paste a strip of buttered paper around the edge of cover; then pack the form into cracked ice and salt for 1 or 2 hours; when ready to serve take the form from the ice, rinse it off with cold water, remove the paper and wipe the form dry; then dip it quickly into hot water, take off the cover, turn the cream onto a dish and serve at once.