[794] As it frequently happens that more passengers are brought by the train, than the omnibus or coach can convey, some activity is necessary to secure an outside place, which it is most desirable for the s geological tourist to possess, that he may command a good view of the splendid scenery, which will be constantly opening on his sight, through the romantic pass that leads to Matlock.
EXCURSION TO MATLOCK DALE.
The road from Amber Gate leads through a succession of picturesque scenes of surpassing beauty. At Whatstandwell-bridge[795] (see [Lign. 273]), over which the Derwent is crossed, the view is most imposing. The river is seen rapidly pursuing its course between richly wooded ravines, fringed with luxuriant foliage to the water’s edge.[796] As we advance, the bold mountain ridge of Crich Hill appears on the light, with the village of Holloway at a considerable elevation, and Lea Mills near the base of the range; while on the left are the hills and overhanging woods of Alderwasley. Ascending to the Inn at Cromford, the road turns suddenly to the right, and by an opening cut through a mass of strata twenty feet thick, called Scarthing Rock, conducts to the southern entrance of Matlock Dale. On passing this chasm, the glorious features of this enchanting region burst on the view. On the east is a range of limestone cliffs, richly wooded, with Willersley Castle, the seat of the Arkwrights, embosomed in trees on a commanding eminence; and on the west, a rocky precipice, crested with forests, and its sides partially covered with copses and brushwood; while the river, dashing through the ravine on the right, completes the magic of the picture—
"So wond’rous wild, the whole might seem.
The scenery of a fairy dream."
Lady of the Lake.
[795] Hotstandwell in the guide-books; Whatstandwell in the Ordnance Map.
[796] The pedestrian should alight at the little Inn at Whatstandwell, and walk on to Matlock the following morning.
At the distance of about half a mile, we pass the toll-gate, and a bold mural precipice of mountain limestone suddenly appears on the eastern bank of the river; while on the western, a steep slope, clothed with verdure, rises rapidly to the lofty pine-clad eminence called Masson Hill, an elevation of upwards of 1,000 feet. The base of this mountain stretches directly across the dale in front, and apparently presents a barrier to an egress from the valley on the north; but as we advance, the road is seen to wind round its foot by a defile along the left bank of the river; and the magnificent rock called the High Tor rises in majestic grandeur on the right. The valley now gradually expands, and, at the distance of about two and a half miles from the entrance at Scarthing’s rock, terminates in the champaign country beyond Matlock village.[797] From the precipitous nature of the escarpment of mountain limestone which forms the eastern boundary of the dale, the buildings at Matlock Bath are confined to the left or western side of the Derwent, and are scattered here and there among the trees, on the projecting plots and terraces formed by the fallen cliffs of sandstone, which, during the lapse of ages, have become partially disintegrated and are more or less concealed by vegetable soil; the projecting rocks are covered with lichens, mosses, and ferns.
[797] The proper name of the hamlet in the valley, generally called Matlock, is Matlock Bath.