Town Plan No. 5—Conway.
The road into Conway leads over the suspension bridge built by Telford, the harmony of the towers with the adjacent castle being a subject of general congratulation. The entrance to the Castle (admission 3d.) is close to the end of the bridge. The structure possesses the characteristics of Edwardian castles, with more ornamentation than usual, and was undoubtedly, when perfect, one of the most magnificent fortresses in the kingdom. It commands, as usual, one of the roads through the passes leading from Wales—that from the Snowdon district and Anglesey. The chief points of interest are the Queen's Tower, with its oratory, the Great Hall, the King's Tower, and the Broken Tower. It is a matter for surprise that so much remains of interest in the castle to the present day, which, like nearly all the castles in Wales, was dismantled by the Parliamentarians. The soft grey colour of the stone, and the warm, rich greens and browns of the foliage which creeps over them, is exceptionally pleasing; the delightful views of the surrounding country, and the wonderful position occupied by the massive walls, all conduce to render Conway Castle a conspicuous landmark in the recollection of the traveller.
In passing down Castle Street, a late Perpendicular carved stone on the front of a house on the south side is of interest, and so also is a quaint building, now a temperance hall, dating from the year 1400.
One of the entrances to the Church lies in this street. The building is of the Decorated period, and is of great interest, as it contains a Perpendicular rood-loft, richly carved, with priests' entrance in perfect preservation, and a fine screen; a lace humeral and corporal 400 years old, preserved behind glass in the vestry; and a curious post-Reformation arched tomb on the south side of the chancel.
The Walls of Conway are unique, and form the best example in Europe of thirteenth-century scientific fortification. The Saracenic influence engendered by the Crusades is strongly exemplified in their construction; they are one mile in circuit, about 12 feet thick, with four gates and many semicircular towers. The feature of piercing the merlons of the battlements for the discharge of arrows is exemplified here, as in the castle. This undulating, encircling wall, clothed with creepers in parts, and presenting picturesque features at every turn, is a dream of medievalism not often encountered. Upon the quay stands the reputed smallest house in Great Britain, squeezed into a corner of the fortifications; one can stand in the road and shake hands with a person in the upper story.
Plas Mawr, or Queen Elizabeth's Palace (admission 6d.), dates from 1585, and has its chief frontage in Crown Lane. It is a perfectly preserved example of the architecture of that period, and abounds in archæological objects of interest. The 365 windows and 52 doors are not merely a coincidence.
Leaving Conway, the Sychnant Pass may be traversed if desired; it is a steep road leading over the mountains to Penmaenmawr, revealing fine views over the whole district.
The main road leads round the coast via Penmaenbach Point, near Conway Mountain (upon which are traces of an ancient fort). At Penmaenmawr one finds a cluster of modern villas, of every size and design, nestling at the foot of an enormous mass of stone towering up to a height of 1,550 feet—the well-known Penmaenmawr Mountain. Upon the summit, which affords a magnificent view for many miles round, are the ruins of one of the strongest of the early British forts, said to have accommodated 20,000 men. It is a matter for infinite regret that this important link with primitive Wales should be doomed to disappear through the steady advance of the huge quarries now eating into the hill. These quarries, and the steep tramway-lines up to them, also very seriously detract from the beauty of the spot. After leaving the village, the great round hump upon the summit of the mountain can be plainly seen from the road.