At Llanfairfechan, a small seaside resort, one reaches a typical Welsh resort—bathing-machines and sands combined with incipient mountain-climbing.
The Falls at Aber are two miles from the road, and can only be reached by footpath. The effect of the falls varies greatly with the season; but the climb up the valley towards Foel Fras is very fine. The road now passes inland somewhat, and the views of the Straits, of Beaumaris, and of Puffin Island, hitherto enjoyed, become obscured by trees. Near Bangor one of the entrances to the park surrounding Penrhyn Castle is seen upon the right, and here is the Model Village of Llandegai, interesting to those engaged in the social problems of the day. Workmen on the Penrhyn estate are housed in pretty cottages grouped in twos or threes, and placed in gardens. Avenues of trees shade the village roads, in the middle of which is Llandegai Church (the key generally hangs up in the porch). A tomb with two recumbent effigies of interest lies within: it came from Llanfaes Priory, but whom it represents is not known; the armour of the knight and the costume of the lady point to c. 1470. The church is charmingly clean and well kept. In the village no public-house is allowed, a state of things which has been productive of the very best results.
The road runs some distance by the park, and at times affords a view of Penrhyn Castle, the entrance to which is seen upon taking a sharp turn to the right, when Penrhyn Port is perceived; the bridge leads up to the gateway. (Open Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, 10 to 5; 2s. for one person; 1s. extra for each additional one. Half the proceeds goes to local hospitals.) The castle is an impressive modern reproduction of a Norman fortress; the keep reminds one of Rochester, and is really fine. The interior is worth a visit, if only to see how Lord Penrhyn has adapted modern luxury to the rough Norman architecture.
BANGOR
Upon leaving the castle, University College is passed upon the right, and a drive through the street leads to an open triangular space, where the cathedral comes into sight. Although the cathedral site has a rich history, having been occupied by the first church about 525, yet the present edifice is singularly uninteresting and unimpressive. This is undoubtedly due to the fact that the Saxon church was destroyed in 1071, the Norman successor in 1211, and the Early English building in 1407, when it was reduced to ruins, and remained so for nearly a century. Consequently, the main part of the present edifice only dates from Henry VII.'s reign, and the tower from 1532. There is nothing of interest in the cathedral and but little outside. The clock, however, upon the occasion of the writer's recent visit, was worth noting, as the hands, the striking parts, and Greenwich time, were all at variance. Thus, when the hands pointed to 9.54, Greenwich time was 9.49, and the clock struck 10.
CONWAY VALLEY.
A peep of the River Conway between Bettws-y-Coed and Conway.
From the road leading downwards by the cathedral there is a view of the new University buildings, placed upon a commanding site overlooking the town. Lower Bangor lies in an amphitheatre of hills, upon which Upper Bangor is being built, the latter embracing the fashionable part of the town, and also the goal of pleasure-seekers, who patronize the sands and the pier.