Behind the Royal Hotel, which is passed on entering the town, is a small rocky knob, easily climbed, called Twt Hill, a coign of vantage for viewing the Carnarvon mountains, the Straits, Anglesey, and Carnarvon itself. On a clear day the mountains of Wicklow can be seen, and as a practical exponent of the ichnography of the town the hill is of great use. The approach to the castle by a narrow road suddenly reveals a view of Carnarvon Castle, the vast dimensions of which may probably be best gleaned by walking down to the slate wharf on the River Seoint, laving the walls. Here the great height of the walls, the quality of the excellent stonework, and the general effect of impregnability, are realized. Returning to the main entrance, the great arch known as the Queen's Doorway is passed high up in the wall; it is the traditional spot whence the infant Edward was shown to the Welsh chieftains by his father. The drawbridge at one time crossed the street at this point; an inn now occupies the sight of the barbican. Within the castle (admission 4d.) the visitor is at once struck with the idea that a medieval fortress in its entirety is presented to the view; there are no crumbling ruins or ivy-clad masses of fallen masonry, as in the majority of structures of this nature. This is accounted for by the fact that it belongs to the Crown, and every stone as it becomes weathered is carefully replaced. The castle is, in fact, a most interesting study for the archæologist, as illustrating medieval methods of defence. The Eagle Tower, the reputed apartment where Edward II. was born, the Queen's Gateway, and other interesting parts, are pointed out by the keeper. It should be remembered that the castle is the finest in Europe except one; that it was built by Edward I. in 1283, heightened by Edward II., garrisoned by the Royalists in the Civil War under Lord Byron, and after an able defence surrendered to the Parliamentarians, who ordered its demolition in 1660, which was fortunately not carried out. The Town Walls of Carnarvon are interesting objects to the visitor, as is also St. Mary's Church, built into the walls, a tower forming the vestry and the walls two sides of the church.

Of Segontium, the great Roman station, but little remains. A portion of the wall, in bad condition, lies in a narrow lane at the top of the hill, gained by ascending Pool Street and Tithebarn Street and passing round to the right, at the back of the Rectory, before reaching Llanbeblig Church. There are other and better sections to be seen by making inquiries. In one instance, in the front-garden of a house, it is some 20 feet in height, formed of beautifully squared stones, and can be seen from the roadway; by the courtesy of the occupiers it is quite possible for a nearer view to be obtained. This wall undoubtedly extended to the river.

The road to Llanberis leads from Castle Square up Pool Street for a short distance, when Llanberis Road is entered. The route is to a certain extent spoilt at first by intrusive chimneys and other industrial manifestations. Llyn Padarn has also been ruined by quarries, and probably was never celebrated for scenery. The peak of Snowdon is seen intermittently upon the right, but the chief mountain features are Elidyr Fawr (the other side of which has been seen from Nant Ffrancon) and Carnedd Dafydd, 3,426 feet.

Llanberis is a favourite tourists' resort for fishing and mountain-climbing, and a headquarters for excursions to neighbouring points.

Dolbadarn Castle is of remote antiquity, and probably existed in the sixth century, its position making it a fortress of importance. It has probably seen as much wild work as any castle in Wales, especially during the Glendower period, being the master-key to the Snowdon region.

Old Llanberis, beyond Llyn Peris, is more picturesque than the new, and contains a church, which is chiefly interesting on account of the graves in the churchyard of those who have lost their lives on Snowdon. The entrance to the famous Pass of Llanberis, between Glyder Fawr and Snowdon, is very impressive, and the narrowness of the valley gives it a distinct character compared with Nant Ffrancon. It is probably the finest mountain defile traversed by a carriage-road in the Principality. A huge mass of rock, which in falling has produced a natural cromlech, is to be seen on the left. The summit of Glyder Fawr appears before the end of the pass is reached, but that of Snowdon is still hidden. The highest point of the pass is 1,179 feet above sea-level. The views obtained upon reaching Pen-y-Gwryd are a relief after the wildness of the route traversed. Moel Siabod to the left front, with the sugar-loaf height of Cynicht, are prominent features, while the view down the Gwynant Valley is one of the sweetest prospects in Wales. At the hotel occurs an abrupt turning to the right, and a sharp descent leads to Llyn Gwynant, a picturesque lake, from which a grand view of the rugged slopes of Snowdon is obtained. Llyn-y-Ddinas, farther on, is scarcely less pleasing. Soon afterwards

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is entered, the most romantically situated village in Wales, standing at the junction of three valleys, leading respectively to Carnarvon, Portmadoc, and Capel Curig, and surrounded by a grand array of mountain peaks. It derives its name from the story of Llewellyn's hound, and means 'the grave of Gelert.' The rude monument said to have been erected by the Prince in his repentance for the hasty act may be reached in a few hundred yards from the village. Moel Habog, 2,566 feet, is an easy climb from here. The road to Penrhyn Deudraeth leads through the romantic Pass of Aberglaslyn, and emerges upon the far-famed bridge, where the rich colouring of the rocks, full of exquisite contrasts with the foliage, delights the eye at every glance. There are many parts of Switzerland that afford similar visions of beauty and grandeur, but what Pont Aberglaslyn loses in size it gains in the beauty of its colour. The junction of two roads occurs here—one to Tremadoc, the other to Penrhyn. The latter drops to an extensive and dreary plain, Traeth Mawr, across which the road winds with many a sharp turn. The views of the distant mountains are very effective, while straight in front the Castle of Harlech becomes a prominent feature, with the waters of Cardigan Bay to right and left.