DISTANT VIEW OF PENMAENMAWR.
Between Conway and Bangor.
Penrhyn Deudraeth is a mining village of no interest, except as the starting-point of the Ffestiniog narrow-gauge railway. Here the river draining the Vale of Ffestiniog enters a large sheet of water called Traeth Bach, and, crossing it by a bridge, the Morfa Harlech, an uninteresting flat, is entered, with the modern Castle of Deudraeth to the right. Here the road runs between the Morfa and the high country to the left, until it reaches the little town of
HARLECH
Unless the visitor should happen to be a golfer and a frequenter of the famous St. David's Club Links, there is practically nothing of interest in the neighbourhood except the castle, famous in history and song, which occupies a precipitous elevation in the front of the town. The entry is opposite the Castle Hotel. (Admission 4d.) A fortress of some sort existed as early as the third century, when Bronwen, or White-Bosomed, the daughter of Bran the Blessed, lived here. About 550 a more substantial pile was raised, but this in turn was replaced by the present castle, built by Edward I. in 1280, who, however, incorporated much of the older building in his new fortress. In 1404 it was seized by Glendower, but retaken by the King's troops in 1408. Margaret of Anjou took refuge in it after Northampton in 1460. Edward IV., after a long siege, captured it in 1468, and the 'March of the Men of Harlech' dates from that period. During the Civil War the castle was alternately in possession of both parties. It is now Crown property. The magnificent view from the battlements should be seen. Across the bay, seven miles, is the sister castle of Criccieth, while the long promontory of Carnarvon, termed Lleyn, forms a bold feature on the north-western horizon. The two highest elevations on the promontory are The Rivals, and Bardsey Island is the detached fragment. To the right there is a line of mountain peaks to Moel Hebod and the Snowdon heights. Two and a half miles to the south of Harlech the Island of Mochras lies off the shore, joined at low tide by an isthmus. It is chiefly visited for its beautiful shells. Near it is the commencement of the Sarn Badrig, a curious ledge of rocks, bare at low tide, which runs far out into the waters of the bay. A similar formation, though of less extent, lies off Aberystwyth. To the antiquary the country to the east of Harlech is of the greatest interest; it teems with relics, chiefly prehistoric, such as cromlechs, stone circles, and dolmens. The far-famed Roman Steps, the Lake of Cwm Bychan, with its abnormally savage surroundings, the Drws Ardudwy, all lie in this interesting hinterland, mostly far away from the main road. Near Llanbedr, however, between the road and the river, and just short of the village, are two long stones, and another bearing an Ogham inscription. Llanddwywe Church is not of any particular interest, but two cromlechs stand nearly opposite the King's Head Inn, about eighty yards from the road. The large cromlech known as Arthur's Quoit is at some distance, near Cors-y-Gedol, the old seat of the Vaughans, or Vychans, of Cors-y-Gedol. The church at Llanaber is of Early English architecture, and should be visited. An inscribed stone of much interest and with various decipherings stands near the north-west door; it was found below low-water mark on the beach near the church.
BARMOUTH
This rather overbuilt watering-place is situated in a romantic position at the mouth of the Mawddach, and is remarkable for its genial winter climate, the town being protected by the high hills surrounding it. Apart from the visitors who crowd into the town during the summer season, there are a great number who utilize it as a centre for mountaineering, antiquarian, geological, and fishing excursions. The houses are built up the face of the cliff, so that the chimney-pots of one house are opposite the front-door of the house behind, and it is possible to diagnose a neighbour's dinner by the odours thus conveyed. The church is new, but some interesting geological contortions occur near it. The view from the railway bridge is one of the most remarkable in Wales. (The toll is 2d., and one of the best times for seeing the estuary and its mountainous setting is at sunset.) High tide helps the scene enormously. A rich and sombre purple, partly clothing the mountains, melts into exquisite gradations of green and velvety browns. Cader Idris, upon the right, fills all that side of the picture; the Arrans furnish the centre distance; while the outliers of Llawr Lech and Y Garn occupy the left. A well-known projection on the flanks of Cader is the Giant's Nose.
The Panorama Walk is a favourite stroll from Barmouth; it is commenced at a terrace bearing the curious name of Porkington, and direction-boards indicate the route. The path truly deserves the name it has been given, although the labelling of scenery in this way is exceedingly distasteful.
THE ESTUARY OF THE MAWDDACH