Llandovery consists chiefly of two streets, which converge at the market-place, and a welcome change is the red wash with which many of the houses are covered, as a relief from the ubiquitous whitewash of the rest of Wales.
The Castle.—This has nearly disappeared, and only two dismantled circular towers, with a curtain wall between, remain. They may be found standing on a grassy knoll near the Castle Hotel. The River Bran is fairly wide at this point, and passes under a fine bridge.
Upon leaving Llandovery a level crossing has to be negotiated; the road crosses the River Towy, and then turns sharply to the left.
Llanwrda is a pretty village situated amid lovely pastoral scenery, and with a fine prospect over the valley. The road here turns at right angles towards the north, and between this point and the Hafod Bridge Inn, nearly four miles, the scenery is distinctly and strikingly beautiful. The small stream, the Dulais, accompanies the route, passing and repassing under the road. Near Pumpsaint lies a gold-mine, the Ogofan, and here the River Cothi, beloved of piscators, comes down from the mountains on its way to the Towy. Between Pumpsaint and Lampeter high ground is crossed, and a portion of the Sarn Helen Roman road appears near an inn beyond Pont-ar-Twch. Near Lampeter a village occurs bearing the ominous name of Rain.
LAMPETER
is one of the best-known fishing centres in Wales, the River Teifi affording exceedingly good sport. It is a well-built town, situated in a fertile valley. The bridge over the stream is said to have been erected in the time of King Stephen, from which the town claims the name of Lampeter Pont Stephen. The chief building is St. David's College, theological, designed for those who cannot afford Oxford or Cambridge. To gain the road for Newcastle Emlyn and Cardigan the river at Lampeter must be recrossed, and the turning taken to the right at 'Gwar Gate' Inn. The route gives a striking view over the valley of the Teifi, whose extraordinary meanderings and loopings appear as a huge serpent of silver lying in the broad landscape. The road for a considerable distance is of Roman construction—the Sarn Helen, but even those conquerors of the world could not conquer Nature in Wales and make their roads straight.
Llanbyther is a small and prettily-situated village, with one of the numerous 'Pen-y-Gaer' camps lying close to the road. The New Quay Road Station of Llanfihangel-ar-Arth turns off to the right soon after the Aber-Iar Inn; it is of a second-class character, but saves a considerable distance and some hills on the way to Llandyssil.
Llandyssil is a romantically-situated village upon the banks of the Teifi, which here assume a rocky character. Its church is dedicated to St. Tyssul, who lived in the early part of the sixth century. From Llandyssil the road south of the river should be taken to Newcastle Emlyn; it has many awkward turns.
NEWCASTLE EMLYN
is a well-situated town with a long street running at right angles to the coach-road.