The Castle is a beautifully-placed ruin, with grand views over the surrounding country. The position of the fortress for natural defence is most remarkable, for the Teifi here forms a reversed S, and in one of the loops so made the ruins are situated, the moat thus naturally formed being one of the most remarkable in existence. The most ancient building upon the site is reputed to have had a Roman origin; the second was erected by Sir Rhys ap Thomas (who built Dynevor Castle) in the time of Henry VII., who frequently resided here, and from it the town was termed 'New-castle.' The Royalists held it throughout the Civil War, but after that period it appears to have lapsed into ruin. Two octagonal towers supporting an arch give entrance to the ruins.
Three miles out from Newcastle Emlyn is Cenarth, a most picturesque and pleasantly-situated little village upon the border between Carmarthenshire and Pembrokeshire. There is a fine salmon-leap close to the hamlet which is worth seeing. The road thence to Cardigan traverses a plain, becoming more and more open as the town is approached, presenting a broad sweep of smiling woods and pasture.
CARDIGAN
The chief centre of interest in Cardigan is undoubtedly the bridge over the Teifi. It probably dates from the Early English Period, and has been widened. From this point there is a good view up and down the river, with the castle and church as prominent features.
The Castle.—The small portion hidden away in the ivy at the present time affords no clue to the former size and importance of this stronghold. It was founded in the time of Henry II. by the Prince of South Wales, and after a chequered career was dismantled at the Commonwealth. The keep is now occupied by private houses.
The Church (key obtained at one of the cottages in the road).—The tower is a fine one, but so far as the whole interior is concerned it must be confessed that all ecclesiological features of interest have been obliterated by paint, plaster, and incongruous additions. The chancel arch, of the Perpendicular period, has a fearful and wonderful 'skew,' which may or may not have been acquired by age.
The town contains a number of old houses, nooks, and byways, but they are only moderately interesting to the artist, who finds his best subjects by the bridge and along the river, where sailing-boats and small steamers reveal the picturesque qualities generally to be found in small ports. One feature of the town soon attracts attention—namely, the strong reluctance of the majority of chimneys in Cardigan to keep to the perpendicular.
St. Dogmael's Priory, less than two miles from Cardigan, lies upon the left of the estuary. The remains are of the Early English period, and are still considerable. Martin de Tours, who came over with the Conqueror (not St. Martin), was the founder.
Kilgerran Castle, three miles south of the town, and easily reached by road, stands upon a vast bare rock uplifted above the foaming, eddying stream rushing round its base, through a narrow channel in the rocks. Many eulogistic statements have been made concerning this beauty-spot, but none have overpraised it. The ruins consist of two towers, with part of a gateway and curtain wall, together with fragments of massive bastions. It was erected about 1223, when Marshall, Earl of Chepstow, subdued the Welsh in these districts.