Dia. [IIa] shows a full waist which is shown by the ¼ gore in the underarm gore at the waist, and in the larger width in the front of waist. The roll is shorter than on Dia. [II]. It buttons three buttons but may easily be made longer. The heighth of back above lines 9 and 13¹⁄₁₆ is only 14¾, being ¼ shorter over the blade, because most all such forms are more or less erect forms. In place of a lap of 1 in. in front the waist seam has a gore of 1 in. behind, and the run of that seam may be made to suit fancy or style. In cutting, the top of sidepiece should be run out into the armhole until it is long enough for the back from the nicks upward, as shown on Dia. [IIB].
DIA. IIA.
DIA. IIB.
I also add another diagram, [IIB], which illustrates the erect and slender form—hollow back—full breast—square shoulders—forms which are mostly hard to fit. It is on the same square as Dia. [II] and [IIa], but the difference is shown between the back and the side piece. The height of back is 14¾ and the front and back is even at the neck for the square shoulder.
Now, it will be seen how closely Dia. [II], [IIa] and [IIB] are connected, and yet how far they are from fitting the same form. With the help of these three diagrams it seems to me any cutter should have easy sailing in fitting his customers. There is the tall, slim person to be fitted by Dia. [II] and [IIB], and the short form and the full waist by Dia. [IIa], and any of the other abnormal conditions here shown by the three diagrams, may be taken from one of them and placed on the other. Often, the abnormal conditions may be just contrary to the illustration.
DIA. IIB.