DIA. VIII B.
This is produced here as a fine seamer sack. It can be used as a three seamer by taking a trifle more out between the back and side. For a short roll allow 1 inch in front of point 9 only, and reduce the gore under the lapel to about ¼ inch. The back is hollowed out ⅜ at the waist, and the center at the bottom is not thrown outside of the base.
In all other respects it is the offspring of Dia. [VIII], and may be a trifle better. In practical cutting it will be found that Dia. [VIII] is more toward the erect form, because of its back being thrown outside of the base at the seat.
Dia. [VIII B], serves another purpose and this is the position of the one back on the square of 20½, in which position the back may be made smaller or wider without injuring the balance of the lengths above 13½. At the neck the shoulder laps ⅜ for the normal form.
But it illustrates another point. On Dia. [III] there will be seen an opening in the under arm seam running up in the arm hole, and which opening is balanced for the three-seam sack by reducing that amount between the back and side seam. But the fifth seam on Dia. [VIIIB], balances that part and the back and the side are cut on one line, from line 11¼ up. It gives a real good shape, and the whole diagram may be accepted as good, but the measure must be taken close. For the last year I have closely watched the effects of longer or shorter backs, and I must here repeat that 15 for a frock and 14 for a vest, and 13½ for a sack are good averages. Further: That a more erect form may easily have ¼ less, and a more forward, leaning form ¼ more, and a form like the third form in “[Models]” may have ½ to ¾ more length.
But the arm holes must remain the same, and whatever the back is made longer, must be reduced again in the length at the back armhole. On a frock coat this can easily be done by reducing said length between the back and side piece, because of the curved seam; but on a sack, with its straight side seam, such reduction would not take up length, but width, and such extra length may be taken out of the shoulder seam, providing the back notch for the sleeve is thrown that much further down.
Again, if the back is to be shortened the contrary alteration must be observed, but ¼ to ⅜ less back, may be the extreme amount for an erect form, while a stooping form may require ¾ for the extreme. Stretching the center of the back in length about 4 inches sidewise and at the point of the blade, will have the same effect, providing the coat maker will do it, or is instructed to do it.
A hot iron in the hands of a skillful tailor is a mighty factor toward making a garment what it ought to be.
DIA. VIII. B.