Garment cutting in the twentieth century

by Günther F. Hertzer

In a few years pants will again be worn smaller at the knee, and Dia. [XIX] must be reduced at the knee and at the thigh. It is hard to tell what the bottoms will be then, but for all that the center of foot and heel is here for a guide. Time will show if pants will then be made with large spring bottoms or whether they will be made again as they were a few years ago, hardly large enough for the leg to pass through. But I will say this. Dia. [XIX] will fit at the seat and upward for any style. At the fork it may be reduced one seam on the forepart only, and at the side of thigh it may be reduced one seam on each back and on each front, for a close fit.

At the side of the knee the angle of 10 deg. may be hollowed out ⅝ to ¾ on each back and on each front, or so much as the inward curve of side of the knee will warrant. At the inside of the knee allow ¼ to ⅜ on the double to the angle of 10 deg., all of which will produce a knee of about 18 inches made up, and that will be pretty close for a seat of 38. Again, if size 38 is reproduced for a size 35, the knee will be about 18½ inches made up, and if from this is taken away ½ inch on each forepart and on each back at the side of the knee to represent the hollow of the leg there, and which is not shown in the present style, the knee will make up 17½ inches which again is a fair width for a narrow leg for size 35.

Another good way to produce a close fitting knee is this: From the center line of the angle of 10 deg. measure both ways and give on the double inseam ¾ inches more than on the double outside, and this rule will hold good on all forms, because the center of the angle of 10 degrees is the center for the pants leg, but the inside of the leg is straight while the outside is hollowed out about ¾ inches, and that hollow must be imitated in order to make a close fit of the pants.

DIA. XXVI.

But in order to show the correct idea of a close fitting pants, I have added Dia. [XXVI] to the supplement. It is for a form which will go with Dia. [II]. Seat size 35, waist made up 33, knee and bottom 17 in., length of legs 32 in. It may be called old style now, but it will be in style at the close of the Nineteenth century, or certainly at the dawn of the Twentieth century.

For spring bottoms allow on each side of the back, starting about 5 in. above the bottom, and take away from the bottom of the forepart an equal amount on each side, or so much until the forepart is reduced to less than 7 in. Dia. [XXVI] is marked “7 in. above bottom” for the reason that the width of the pants, about 7 in. above the bottom, must be the same, no matter if the legs are 30 or 35 in. long. The seams are notched from a sweep having its pivot at point 80, which of course is cut off on this diagram. Sweeping each side separately from the bottom of the pants and on each line of the angle of 10 deg. will result in the same thing.

The diagrams in the whole book represent the following seat sizes: 29, 35, 38, 39, 40, 46; and it seems to me that any new beginner should be able to control the different parts in the intervening sizes.

As to coats, there will be no trouble to cut them with the scale and according to instructions. But for pants, the scale can only be relied on for the crotch or fork; all other points, such as waist, hip, knee and bottom, must be cut according to the measure. Hence the pants diagrams are given in different sizes. The fork as given by the scale is large enough with 4 on double cloth for the dress side, but may be made with 4¼.