I will again warn a cutter against giving more fork for extra looseness, nor to allow behind on top of back for extra waist proportion, but to allow all extra cloth at the side, unless it is for a large waist, when it is to be cut like Dia. [XX] or [XXIV]. The top line of the back slope of 15 deg. is large enough for all forms, and besides it is large enough to buckle up ½ on each side of the back seam, and which may be cut away there, or may be cut away in the gore in the middle of the back when an extra close waist is to be made. The back slope must remain permanent, and all changes made sidewise or forward.
I will here add two very important points in altering pants: Pants which must be cut down because they are too large in size can always be made better if they are opened in front and cut smaller there and down to the knee. It is true, it may take one hour longer to do it than to make the alteration behind, but if a pants is worth altering, it is worth altering right.
DIA. XXVI.
About six months ago I thought I would try a few pants with the fork points cut ½ in. higher, leaving all other points the same, but they turned out to be first-class failures. They were too short at the bottom, and fitted only when the legs were spread apart several feet, and in which position they were long enough, but when the person sat down they crawled up to the top of his shoes. From this I drew the following conclusion: Stretching the inseams will throw the legs sidewise, and will have the same effect as cutting the crotch higher, and whenever pants work that way, the fork points should be cut down about ½ inch, but without disturbing the point in front of line 8 any more than can be helped, but the fork width must be re-established. This may make the bottom short, and requires the legs to be let out below, but it will establish a better fit. I will here again point out the fact, that the inseam stretches more easily than the outside, and cutters must provide for such defects, from whatever cause they may originate.
I cannot specify amounts, but can only point out the way of alteration, either after the pants are made or before they are cut, and will only add: Cutting the fork ½ inch down will cause the leg to be thrown 1½ inch more toward the center of the leg, and ½ inch of alteration may be considered the extreme alteration for any pants cut according to this work. If a pattern is cut for pants with plenty notches at the seams, a cutter can soon find out whether the seams have been stretched, and how much.
It pays to cut all garments over patterns.
DIA. IV A.
I also add a double-breasted vest. Knowing what trouble I have had myself in getting the front of such a vest to fit, I came to the conclusion that this work is not complete without such a diagram, and Dia. [IV A] is presented. It has the neck and the shoulders on the same principle points as Dia. [IV], and it only remains for me to say a few words about several points. At the bottom of the armhole the back is placed at point 11, and is ¼ of a number longer than in Dia. [IV], but that ¼ extra length of back should be given to a double-breasted vest because the long and open front can settle better to its place. On account of the large curve in front, the neck band is about ½ inch higher behind, thus giving less spring, and for this reason the side of the neck should be pretty well stretched. The diagram itself furnishes no spring outside of the angle of 135 deg., but ¼ may be given and the back sewed on smooth.