The gore under the collar should be cut for all such vests, but that gore should hardly be more than the two seams. If the seam is drawn together a cut of ⅜ is plenty, providing the neck is not stretched again by sewing the collar on. The bottom of front is represented with a good sized “lap over,” and if less is desired take ¼ inch off at the front edge and set the buttons ¼ inch forward. The buttons are 2½ numbers backward of the straight front line. A double-breasted vest, to button up to the neck, must have a large gore under the collar as shown in Dia. [IV A], for two straight pieces will never fit the chest of a man when they are to be lapped over each other from three to four inches. For the whole bottom of the forepart sweeps from 4* and the lap over will fit. This sweep must extend through the whole front angle of 15 deg. and may be swept clear back to the side seam, as shown in Dia. [IV A], but may be sunk down ½ inch at the side seam, starting at the plumb base line.
Notch the shoulder from a sweep from the side of the back or at a point 4½ numbers from O on the top square line. Dia. [IV A] is shown with a large open front and well curved out, but may be cut straighter or higher, or even lower to suit fancy or style. A customer may put up with a coat that shows the corners on each side of the bottom of the front, but he will not wear a double-breasted vest with one side longer than the other, and it is astonishing how many such vests are found, especially amongst the ready made clothing. That defect is not caused by cheap ready made work, but it is caused by the designer of the patterns over which such vests are cut, and for which clothing manufacturers usually pay a liberal price.
Writing about ready made clothing brings me to another point. Coats cut over Dia. [II], [VIII B] and [X], will give a better average fit and a nicer shoulder and an easier armhole, than the great majority of ready made clothing can boast of, and the same is true of the pants and vests.
DIA. IV A.
DIA. VII A.
I also give Dia. [VII A], of which Dia. [VII] is the parent pattern. This Dia. [VII A] requires no particular description, except that the back of Dia. [VII] is swung from point 10½ at the armhole shoulder seam, and the ordinary spring in the shoulder seam is added. In the position of Dia. [VII A] the cutter may easily throw the shoulder seam more forward at the armhole if he so desires it. The neck band must be a straight piece, as wide as button holes can be worked in, and the neck band must be put on loose at the side of the neck. The width in front, and the depth of the neck in front must be regulated according to the coat. The depth of the front of neck is placed at 3, and is as high as any cape may stand, but it is easy to cut it ½ lower. A cape may be cut without neck band by allowing say ⅝ inches on top of top and side of back, and by allowing a ⅝ short spring in the shoulder seam, and giving a good stretch besides.
Dia. VII a.