A circle drawn from this point, with a half diameter of 8 inches, will be large enough, and it may be cut out of solid paste-board, but better, of tin or zinc on which the lines are correctly drawn. The location of the forepart and shoulders is the same as in Dia. [II], or any other diagram. The back and the sidepiece on the square of 20½ are in a different position only. The front is just as good as any diagram can be made for a military or for a clergyman’s coat, when placed as in Dia. [II]. The back and the sidepiece is for illustration only.
That back which rests on the angle of 135 deg. is in all respects correct, but the back which rests on the sidepiece has one incorrect line, and this is the line forming the shoulder seam. It is correct at the armhole, but should run up to the point of the square of 20½, so that all three lines meet, and it will be found that from that point, down to line 9 over the front, will be 14⅜, but line 9 itself gives the correct distance from the top and back corner of the square.
By close observation it is also seen that the height of back above line 9 is only ⅜ more in Dia. [I] than it is in Dia. [IV], or on the vest, and also that the side of the back of Dia. [I] is reduced again in length ½ inch by a gore from the armhole to the shoulder blade, all of which proves that both coat and vest are the same thing on the same square, and that the heights of back and front are the same, and in order that the vest is covered by the coat, the neckhole for the vest is cut ½ lower.
If everything is considered at the waist, the coat is only a trifle larger than the vest, and that, what the front of a coat has more than a vest, is used for the lapel. Though Dia. [I] has a square of 20½, and Dia. [IV] has only a square of 20, both have the same width when all the seams are sewed up. All of which shows that, as the coat must pass over the vest, the vest must be cut at least one size smaller than the coat, and I have found it correct. In other words: The difference between the breast measure over the vest, and that under the vest, is about 1 inch in the whole breast measure. Dia. [I] gives a good deal of information, though it may be useless for practical cutting.
Dia. I.
DIA. II.
This is a plain double-breasted frock; and the diagram is plain and requires little extra description, except the front of the waist and lapel. The fore-part has no gore at the waist, and the reduction is made in front. It will be seen that the double-breasted front of Dia. [II] is only about 1 inch wider than the single-breasted front of Dia. [I], and that the gore in Dia. [I] is balanced in Dia. [II] by the large gore between the lapel and fore-part upward, and if it is desired to cut a small gore at the waist, then all what that gore takes up must be allowed in front.