The lapel in Dia. [II] will roll anywhere down to the second or third button, but if a gore is cut at the waist the roll will go down to the waist seam; and if the collar is pretty well rounded in front the lapel may be run down to the bottom. All frock coats have the center of the back pretty well thrown out at the bottom of the skirt, and this extra width is again reduced between the back and front skirt, which operation allows that seam to be oval-shaped in order to fit over the seat. The frock coat, being open behind, must receive its oval form over the seat in the seam between the back and front skirt, because that seam is sewed together and will hold its shape, whereas if the roundness were placed in the center behind it would simply produce a curved edge, but not an oval shape for the seat. The lap between the forepart and the skirt represents the extra length over the oval chest, and for a full chest, and if the chest is not very full, the lap of 1 number may be reduced to ½ at the front edge, but must remain 1 number at the plumb line base.
Dia. [II] is intended for the normal form, and for the following measure; Breast, 35; waist, 32; hip, 34; seat, 36; length of legs, 32 to 33; form straight without being over-erect. The back and the sidepiece is intended for a close fit, or as fine work ought to fit. If a looser fit is required, the gores between the back and the sidepiece and between the fore-part and the sidepiece should be made a trifle smaller from the hollow of the armhole downward, which will give greater ease to the armhole and is better than to cut the armhole more forward. If a waist is prominent, say nearly as large as the breast, the underarm gore may be made as small as ⅛ to ¼ at line 17½ and run out to nothing at line 20; while a very large waist may require a lap of 1 inch, at the waist seam, starting said extra width at the bottom of the armhole.
This diagram shows the sleeve and the armhole different than Dia. [VII]. The armhole is cut out to the front sleeve base line and the sleeve and the armhole laps 2½ at 60 deg., all of which gives both armhole and sleeve a trifle larger and that armhole requires not so much stretching as that of Dia. [VII]. The top sleeve and armhole nicks are connected by a right angle from the center of back through the angle of 60 deg., and they will fit pretty close together, and in fact may be taken together on all sleeves and armholes, basting forward and backward to meet the other nicks.
Note: Elsewhere it is stated, that Dia. [II] must be considered the parent pattern of all others, which is quite true, though the armhole of Dia. [II] is larger than the others.
Further: In cutting the gore between the back and sidepiece, point 5 must be quite slightly touched by both, and it may be better to have ⅛ gore there on all coats except for the stooping form. See Dia. [II B].
DIA. II.