I assume that the reader understands that the stops and levers that cause all these automatic changes are controlled by studs attached in their proper places on the chain e, Fig. 67, which in turn is controlled by the drum d.
We will now take up in more detail the action of the cards and the mechanism provided to actuate them. As stated before, when making a design by this system the card cylinder, together with the cards, is moved up to the edge of the needle plate each round. Referring to Fig. 67, at a-1 there is an eccentric attached to the movable cylinder a, and there is a connection rod from this eccentric to the small shaft o, Fig. 68. Therefore, when the plunger y, Fig. 70, enters the spiral groove and moves the length of the cylinder a, Fig. 67, the cylinder turns about half way round, which of course turns the eccentric a-1, and this moves the card j, No. 1, Fig. 68, up to the needle plate. As noted before, any part of this card that has holes in it could not push those, jacks opposite into working position, while that part of the card which remained intact would put the jacks opposed to it in work. Upon the return of the carriage it turns the cylinder a, Fig. 67, back to its first position, which movement would of course move the cards away from the needle plate again. The cylinder b is actuated in the same manner as cylinder a as the carriage reaches the right end of the machine, but its function is to turn the card cylinder a quarter turn each time in order to bring a new card into position for the next round and make that part of the design.
How Designing Is Done
Having explained the theory of making designs on the jacquard system we will now show in detail how it is done in actual practice. With the jacquard system there is no limit or end to the designs that may be made, as there is with the other systems used on knitting machines.
Fig. 71 is a photographic reproduction of a design made on this machine. The reader who has studied well and thoroughly digested what has gone before will realize that this design could not be made in any other way, on a machine of this type, without an expenditure of time and labor which would be far beyond the bounds of practicability.
The designer will first sketch out his design on a piece of plain paper, then take a piece of cross section paper and lay it down as illustrated in Fig. 72. This is the layout of the design shown in Fig. 71. Each of the crosswise rows of squares represents one round or two courses, and each of the vertical rows represents a wale or needle. In other words each one of the squares in a crosswise row represents a needle or the loops in one round, and each one of the succeeding squares represents that same needle in the succeeding rounds.
Fig. 71.
Design Made on Automatic Jacquard Purl Stitch Machine.
Fig. 72.
Layout of Design Shown in Fig. 71.