Now to cut the cards we would start with No. 1 and cut them consecutively. Referring to Fig. 72, the blank squares, or the spaces in the cards these represent, should be cut out, and the squares marked with an x would remain intact. Starting at the right side, one needle space is not cut out; then sufficient space to cover three needles or jacks is cut out; then the space of eleven jacks is left intact, then three cut out. This is the full width of the first round of the design, therefore this cutting would be repeated until it covers the desired width of fabric. Card No. 2 would be cut as follows: One space cut, one left intact, three cut out, nine left intact, three cut out, and one left intact. This should be repeated as with No. 1 card. Each card thereafter should be cut according to the marking of the cross section paper, and numbered as cut, so as to avoid trouble in assembling them in their proper order when finished.
It should be understood that the part of this layout from the right side to the dotted line is the complete design, and all to the left as well as above and below, would be a duplicate of this.
After these cards are put on the card cylinder, attached like an endless belt, and the machine is in operation, when card No. 18 has finished the last part of the design, card No. 1 will start immediately in the next round on its part of the design. When it comes to card No. 6, that square will have been completed, and a new square in the center section will have been started.
The two-tone color effect is made by using two different colored yarns and using a plating yarn carrier. This throws one color on the face in the jersey stitch and the other color on the face in the purl stitch.
Fig. 73.
Claes and Flentje Automatic Narrowing Machine.
CHAPTER XI
Flat Latch Needle Automatic Narrowing Machine
The flat latch needle automatic narrowing machine as built by Messrs. Claes & Flentje is shown in Fig. 73, and a piece of fabric from this machine narrowed down fourteen needles is shown in Fig. 74. This machine is quite complicated when compared with any that have been taken up before, but those who have studied what has gone before carefully, especially that part treating on fashioned garments and how they are made by hand, should have no trouble in understanding the principles and movements necessary to do this work automatically.
