THE
HISTORY OF THE CRAVAT;[1]
FROM ITS ORIGIN TO THE PRESENT DAY;
WITH REMARKS
ON ITS INFLUENCE ON SOCIETY IN GENERAL.
No decided opinion can be given of the age in which Cravats were first introduced. The ancients were happily unacquainted with the ridiculous and dangerous fashion of confining the throat in linen, either tied in front or fastened behind with a clasp; this part of the frame was allowed to remain in entire liberty; they, however, defended it from the cold by means of a woollen or silken cloth, called in Rome focalium, a term which is evidently derived from fauces (the throat).
A distinguished Jesuit (the Rev. Father Adam) in his work on Roman antiquities, proves by the most undoubted authority that the Romans made use of chin cloths, for the protection of the neck and throat; these were termed focalia, and the public orators, who from professional considerations were fearful of taking cold, contributed in no small degree to render this fashion general. Some (says the Rev. Father) used a handkerchief (sudarium) for this purpose. This is probably the origin of the Cravat, which is in many countries called “Neckhandkerchief.”
Augustus, who was infirm and sickly, constantly used the focalium when at his own house, or with his friends, but he was never seen in it in public; and Lampridius observes that Alexander Severus made use of it only when returning from the baths to his palace. In Rome the custom of leaving the neck bare was so general, that it was considered beneath the dignity of the man and citizen to protect it in any other way than by the hand, or occasionally wrapping the toga round it.
The throats of our forefathers were for ages as uncovered as their faces; in this respect the descendants of the Sarmatæ have not degenerated, as the Poles during the most severe winter have their throats constantly exposed. The same fashion (which is, however, less surprising) has descended to the Eastern Nations, among whom a white and well turned neck is metaphorically compared to the beauty of a tower of ivory. The Calmucks, Baskirs, and other Tartars of the Don, or the borders of the Caspian Sea, also adhere to this fashion; very few of them, however, merit the Eastern compliment, as their throats are generally ugly and ill-formed. This custom gradually declined in France and several parts of Europe, and luxury, rather than necessity, introduced the fashion of covering the throat loosely with a fine starched linen cloth; this was worn above the shirt, without a collar; the ends were brought down on the breast, and there fastened by laces of thread—from this the idea of bands was derived—before the introduction of the heavy and unhealthy bonds, which at a later period confined the throat, was even dreamt of.
The ruff, stiffened and curled in single or double rows (an inconvenient but harmless ornament), became the favourite in its turn, and continued in fashion while the hair was worn short; but this also fell into disrepute when Louis XIII. allowed his to grow. Then raised collars, plaited neck-cloths, and bands (both plain and of lace), enveloped the throats of our ancestors, from the neck to the chin, and covered the tops of the arms and the shoulders. This fashion continued until Louis XIV. adopted the enormous flaxen or black peruke, which almost concealed the front of the neck. It then gave way to bright coloured ribands arranged in bows, which were also introduced by this gay and gallant monarch, and imitated by every one according to his rank or caprice.
Up to that time, as frivolity alone had reigned, the fashion was not injurious; but the throat, which had hitherto been comparatively free, now lost that liberty which it has never since regained. In 1660 a regiment of Croats arrived in France;—a part of their singular costume excited the greatest admiration, and was immediately and generally imitated; this was a tour de cou, made (for the private soldiers) of common lace, and of muslin or silk for the officers; the ends were arranged en rosette, or ornamented with a button or tuft, which hung gracefully on the breast. This new arrangement, which confined the throat but very slightly, was at first termed a Croat, since corrupted to Cravat. The Cravats of the officers and people of rank were extremely fine, and the ends were embroidered or trimmed with broad lace; those for the lower classes were subsequently made of cloth or cotton, or at the best of black taffeta, plaited; which was tied round the neck by two small strings. These strings were at a later period replaced by clasps, or a buckle, and the Cravat then took the name of Stock.