The Cravat at length became universal, and was increased to an almost incredible size. Some enveloped the neck in entire pieces of muslin; others wore a stitched stiffener, on which several handkerchiefs were folded. By this échafaudage the neck was placed on a level with the head, which in size it surpassed, and with which it was confounded. The shirt collar rose to the side of the ears, and the top of the Cravat covered the mouth and lower part of the nose, so that the face (with the exception of the nose) was concealed by the Cravat and a forest of whiskers; these rose on each side to the hair, which was combed down over the eyes. In this costume the élégans bore a greater resemblance to beasts than men, and the fashion gave rise to many laughable caricatures. They were compelled to look straight before them, as the head could only be turned by general consent of all the members, and the tout ensemble was that of an unfinished statue.
Instances have, however, occurred in which these immense Cravats have saved the lives of the wearers in battle. One fact, as related by Dr. Pizis, may be worthy of record. “I was laughing” (says he) “at General Lepale, on account of his enormous Cravat. At the moment of entering into action his regiment charged, and after dispersing the enemy’s cavalry returned to the bivouac. I was informed that the General had been struck by a pistol shot in the throat. I immediately hastened to his assistance, and was shewn a bullet, which was stopped in its career by the very Cravat I had just been ridiculing.—Two officers and several privates had received sabre cuts on the Cravat, and escaped without injury; so that I was obliged to confess that these immense bandages were not always useless.”
Singers more than any class of persons, should be careful to avoid exposing the throat to the cold, a moderate heat contributes to supple the organs, and renders the voice clearer and more harmonious; though, on the contrary, it is greatly deteriorated if the throat is constrained by a tightened Cravat. No part of the body is more susceptible of cold than the neck; and this susceptibility is the effect of too much covering in general; but in leaving a ball room, or any heated place, the greatest care should be taken to defend the chest and neck from cold.
The natives of the South are but too well acquainted with the danger of such sudden transitions, and the Spaniards particularly, who always wear a large handkerchief hanging carelessly from the neck, invariably wrap themselves in it, when being warm they are suddenly exposed to the cold.
In short, the Cravat has now arrived at the summit of perfection, and has been materially assisted in its progress by the use of starch. The question naturally arises to whom is the world indebted for this sublime invention? To the English, Russians, Italians, or French?—On this point we confess ourselves unable to decide. The blanchisseuses of each of those powers have been mainly instrumental in communicating this important discovery to the world at large.
On our parts, more profound investigations would be unavailing; and it is only by a continued course of laborious research, that it would be possible to remove the obscurity which has enveloped the subject of our labours for so many ages.
[1] “Cravat, from Cravate, which Menage derives from the Croats, a sort of German troops, usually called Croats, from whom, in 1636, this ornament, he adds, was adopted.” Todd’s Johnson’s Dictionary.