Tuesday, April 20. The general and staff reached Jalapa about eleven A.M., after a most beautiful ride of eight miles. Along the road were to be observed the Mexican troops in little groups of two or three, accompanied by their women, of whom there were many at their camp at the Cerro Gordo. I ventured to try my horse, and found for the time being less inconvenience than in the wagon. The appearance of the country, rolling and green, was very inviting. As we approached the city, the rear of Worth’s wagons was in the road, the men and mules almost entirely exhausted by the long march of yesterday. Major Smith, in consequence of injuries resulting from riding on horseback, was obliged to ride, and accompanied Major Sumner (wounded in the conflict of the 17th inst.) in the carriage of Santa Anna. On reaching the city I had the pleasure of meeting Captain Lee, Lieutenant Beauregard, and Lieutenants Smith and McClellan of the engineer company, who were in the advance with Twiggs. Quarters were assigned Major Smith and myself in the governor’s house, the headquarters of General Scott.
The same afternoon General Worth was pushed forward in the advance, Captain Lee, Lieutenants Mason and Tower, and the engineer company accompanying him. It was reported that La Hoya and Perote had been abandoned, and that a body of three or four thousand lancers was on the route to Puebla.
Wednesday, April 21. I was busily engaged to-day in organizing the train of the engineer company, the mules having proved very poor on the route from Plano del Rio, and many of the animals being entirely unserviceable. On requisition from the senior engineer, the general directed that a train of eight wagons should be furnished by the quartermaster at Vera Cruz to bring up the engineer train that remained, and as many of the engineer implements as practicable. Lieutenant Foster, in the afternoon, with the engineer train that had come up from the Plano del Rio, started to join his company at Perote. Sapper Noyes went to Vera Cruz in the train of Friday morning to point out to the quartermaster the articles that were needed.
Thursday to Saturday, April 22–24. Nothing especial occurred on these days. I have been principally engaged whilst at my leisure in going about the town, observing the people and their customs.
Sunday, April 25. This day I attended high mass in the cathedral. The church was decorated considerably, though with little taste. There were several figures of the Virgin Mary. The people seemed attentive to the various ceremonies, and were scrupulous in observing the prescribed forms. Not many of the higher classes were present. Some few elegant and well-dressed ladies were to be seen.
Monday to Thursday, April 26–29. During these days I have been collecting facts in relation to the battle of Cerro Gordo, with the view of making a general map and digesting a connected military narrative. In consequence of all the officers, except Lieutenant Beauregard and myself, having gone to Perote, there were no means of making an accurate survey of the positions, or of getting sketches of the various reconnoissances, to form a general plan. The only sketch forwarded from Perote was one by Lieutenant Tower. I have met during these days several old friends, particularly Tilden and Haskin. Canby I have seen much of.
April 30. This day I was busily occupied in preparing a memoir on the proper mode of conducting the war, in case Mexico shall pursue the guerrilla system, and obstinately refuse to listen to terms of accommodation. I find great difficulty in procuring information as to routes, etc. The weather in Jalapa is delightful. For the past four days copious showers towards evening have exercised the most healthful and invigorating influence upon the troops here. Since the arrival of headquarters on Tuesday, April 20, there has been a remarkable equableness of temperature. Jalapa is the very Eden of Mexico, and its picturesque situation in the very bosom of the mountains is nowhere surpassed. Such is the perfect amenity and smiling aspect of nature at this favored spot, that all the seasons of the year meet together. All the days of the year are both seedtime and harvest. The place is singularly beautiful in its perennial bloom, and in the flowers and gardens of its people. They seem to be a happy, easy race, and many of the people are of refinement and intelligence.
There are indications in the suburbs of Jalapa of more populousness and wealth than now obtain, as in the wells of masonry to be seen, fifty feet and more in depth, etc. The snowy peak of Orizaba, fifteen thousand feet above the sea, is to be seen far above the clouds, which at times hang over its base.
Jalapa, Thursday, April 22, 1847.
My dearest Wife,—We entered this beautiful city, fragrant with flowers and shrubbery, at eleven o’clock Tuesday morning. Jalapa and the surrounding country is the Eden of Mexico. For many miles the country is in the highest state of cultivation. There is a perennial bloom. At this very moment all the fruits and every species of vegetation are to be seen in all their stages. On the same tree are seen blossoms and fruit. In the same field we observe grain and corn just springing from the seed, and we see it ready for the sickle. The market abounds in oranges, bananas, peppers, lettuce, cabbages, cauliflower, onions, lemons, peas (green), beans, tomatoes, etc. The refinement and cultivation of the people are to be seen in their taste for flowers. At all points the most beautiful flowers strike your eye. All the houses of the lower classes, as well as of the higher, have gardens of flowers in rear. As you pass through the street you every moment get glimpses of fountains and shrubbery. Jalapa is more than Capua of old. It is Capua with all its beauty and serenity, but without its abandon. The people are refined, courteous, intelligent, and upright. Here we shall remain for some ten days or a fortnight, to organize the campaign, and prepare for the march to Mexico. Jalapa will be the great base of operations.