We left the Plano del Rio on Monday. I rode on a wagon, and reached Encerro, the hacienda of Santa Anna, a distance of fourteen miles, the same evening. The general and his staff passed the night here. It is beautifully situated on a commanding hill, with ample outbuildings, an artificial pond for bathing, etc., and a paved road branching from the main Jalapa road. The hacienda of two stories was elegantly furnished on the second floor, the first floor being appropriated to kitchens, store-rooms, etc. We saw several of Santa Anna’s wooden legs. General Scott gave us in the evening a nice supper with wine.
I rode on Tuesday from Encerro to Jalapa on my horse, and found it about as comfortable as a wagon. The distance was about eight miles. The morning was beautiful and the scenery enchanting. On reaching the city we found some seven or eight thousand of our troops under arms. For the first time since Cortez the hostile feet of a foreign race trod its pavements. The most perfect tranquillity prevailed. The people are well treated, receive good prices for all they wish to sell, and do not feel the weight of a foreign yoke.
Last evening we received intelligence that General Taylor entered the city of San Luis Potosi on the 13th of this month. Well done, indomitable old hero! It is somewhat doubtful whether I shall go on with the army. The surgeon advises me to remain here for the present. With care he thinks I may rely on a permanent cure. Care, however, is required.
Jalapa, May 1, 1847.
My dearest Wife,—I am glad to be able to assure you that my health is improving. It is not yet safe for me to ride my horse, and I think that my ride from Encerro, the country seat of Santa Anna, to Jalapa put me back some days. I can walk without any inconvenience by being careful as to my gait, and avoiding all sudden steps. I am not in the least incapacitated for office duty, and am, excepting my injury, in very vigorous health. It is hard, I assure you, in this beautiful region to be detained from enjoying my fine horse. As it is, he stands in the stable doing nothing. On Monday, May 3, I shall move on with General Patterson’s advance, in charge of the engineer train, to join the engineer corps with Worth.
The brilliant conflict of Cerro Gordo came upon the Mexicans like a thunderbolt, and is the most decisive blow of the war. The road is free to the City of Mexico, and I have no doubt General Scott will be there in six weeks. It is said the Mexicans will resort to the guerrilla mode of warfare. It will be found worse than useless. It will be found of assistance to our arms. General Scott will enforce the strictest discipline, and the people of the country will remain undisturbed in their houses. A fair price will be paid for everything that is consumed. The war will be made to bear with a heavy hand upon all connected with the government, and upon the property of all disaffected persons. Don’t feel alarmed about the observation in the papers in reference to the terrible and atrocious character of guerrilla warfare. No one here feels the least alarm. Twelve resolute men can disperse a hundred rancheros. As guerrilla troops our volunteers are infinitely superior to the Mexicans. The Mexicans as guerrilla troops are poor. They are generally very inferior troops. They are best behind breastworks, yet our men find no difficulty in storming them.
You may be sure that this city is a most charming place. We do not find the upper classes disposed to associate with us. Jalapa is said to be one of the most exclusive places in Mexico, the society being broken up into cliques, and families living among themselves as in New Bedford. The upper classes are indeed said to be very hostile to us. We are now about building a battery to overawe the city, where a ten-inch mortar will be mounted. The terrible destruction at Vera Cruz from our shells has been spread over all Mexico, and with all the exaggeration of the Spanish character. All the cities have the greatest fear of our shells.
The last few days I have been busily occupied in preparing a narrative of the brilliant conflict of the Cerro Gordo, illustrated with a sketch, and for the Engineer Department at Washington, and also in writing a memoir on the best mode of opposing the guerrilla warfare. The latter I have done chiefly for my own instruction. It is possible, if I can finish it to my mind, I may have it published. I have some thoughts of sending it to General Scott at once. The general, however, is a very great talker and writer himself, and I doubt whether he could find time to read the memoir.
Sunday, May 2. The train does not go till to-morrow, so I can tell you something of the occurrences of this day. Sunday is the great market day of Jalapa, and this morning I saw the greatest profusion of vegetables, watermelons in abundance, the finest oranges, bananas, plantains, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, celery, beans, peas, squashes, pumpkins, sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, green corn, rare-ripe onions, tomatoes. The onions are the finest I ever saw. They are far superior to our own. Many well-dressed ladies were to be seen in the market with their servants. I went to the cathedral, but remained only a short time.
I consulted to-day Dr. Wright, the hospital surgeon of Jalapa, in reference to my difficulty, and he speaks in the most encouraging manner. He says there is no objection to my riding a portion of the distance on horseback, and that with care there is not the least danger in advancing with the army.