May 3. In the expectation that the march would take place to-morrow, I was busily engaged preparing for my departure. The sappers remaining in this place made all their arrangements, and the engineer train of eight wagons was put in perfect order, a wagon master and two extra men having been provided for. General Patterson’s advance brigade, that would serve as our escort, was the brigade of Quitman. In the evening, about eight o’clock, an express came up from Vera Cruz.
May 4. I rose early, having decided to start at half past six o’clock. Some delays occurred, and when in readiness to start, at half past seven, I was informed that the order to march had been countermanded. Consequently everything was put back in its place.
About eleven A.M. Carigan, a sick sapper, died at the hospital. He had been sick almost from the first day he came into the country. His case was not considered incurable at Vera Cruz, but the journey to Jalapa, riding in a wagon over a rough road, proved too much for his strength. He was buried in the afternoon in a convent churchyard, his remains having been accompanied by myself and five sappers. When his body was lowered into its final resting-place, I made a few remarks on the peculiar circumstances of his case, dwelling upon the fact that his short service had not been in vain, and that he had served his country, and as much died for his country as though he had fallen at Vera Cruz or at Cerro Gordo. Sergeant Clark and A.M. Noyes, on my calling on them, made a few very appropriate remarks in reference to his case, and bore cheerful testimony to his excellent character and the esteem in which he was held by his associates. Regan, a sapper who had enlisted with him, and who had known him for a long time, was a most sincere mourner. He seemed to reproach himself as the cause of Carigan’s death, in consequence of his own example having been the cause of Carigan’s enlistment. I stated to Regan that he had no cause to reproach himself, and that in writing to Carigan’s friends he could dwell upon the circumstances of Carigan’s having received every attention, and finally having been buried in one of the most beautiful regions of the earth, and in ground consecrated by the religious solemnities of his faith.
May 5. There are reports that Santa Anna intends cutting off the large train coming from Vera Cruz in a few days, in consequence of which Captain Bainbridge with a battalion of infantry proceeded downward yesterday, to be followed by Colonel Riley and a portion of his brigade to-morrow, the whole to take a position at the National Bridge. I now hold myself in readiness to move forward at any moment. But in the present aspect of affairs, three regiments of volunteers returning home, much sickness amongst the troops, and no certainty as to the arrival of new levies, it is not certain that it will be possible to move beyond Puebla.
May 7. Left Jalapa this morning at 7.30 in charge of the second section of the engineer train, to join the advance of General Worth, and under the escort of General Quitman’s brigade, to whom I reported on my arrival at his encampment. He did not get under way till towards noon, and, after marching two hours through a cultivated and beautiful country, we reached the village of El Soldado, about eight miles from Jalapa. After halting an hour at this place the command pursued its march through a most picturesque and beautiful country, presenting at the different points a varied view of the valley, dotted all over with villages, and with fields of corn and barley, and parties of laborers by the roadside peacefully pursuing the cultivation of the soil. At La Hoya, defended with some care at a pass between two high hills, with a succession of barriers in the road, two arranged with a single embrasure for guns, was to be seen the apple-tree in blossom, and also the pine-tree. We halted at Las Vegas for the night, the road hither ascending all the way, and the character of the trees rapidly changing to the fir, the black birch, and the mountain oak. Las Vegas is a somewhat straggling village of perhaps about two thousand people, situated in a depression or valley in the hills, which to the northeast expand into a most fertile and agreeable plain, highly cultivated along the west side. Most inviting fields of barley and corn had remained untouched, though the horses of our troops had subsisted on the former. Jalapa to El Soldado, seven miles; to La Hoya, three miles (large); to tank on left, nine miles; to Las Vegas, three miles; Jalapa to Las Vegas, twenty-two miles.
May 8. Left Las Vegas about eight A.M. and reached Perote about twelve P.M., a distance of ten miles, or about. This route for the first three miles is quite rough and uneven. At the end of the third mile is a very long and difficult descent, at the foot of which is a beautiful stream of ice-cold water, flowing directly from the Coffre de Perote. Here the whole command were refreshed. After ascending a considerable hill we again, after a gentle descent, gained a little village at another, quite sluggish stream about a mile from the Rio Frio. A slight ascent brought us to the extended plain of Perote, ten or twelve miles in width and extending generally in a westerly direction as far as El Pinal. Perote, with its castle in the middle of the plain and towards its eastern extremity, was almost depopulated, and presented a very uninviting appearance. General Worth had collected here large stores of forage and flour, much rice, and some sugar and coffee. On reporting to General Worth, and stating my object (to join Captain Lee), I was directed to attach myself to Colonel Clarke’s brigade, the last battalion of which was to march at seven A.M. on the 9th. I found Mason quite sick, and doubtful as to his ability to move on. Though somewhat fatigued with my day’s march, I suffered no inconvenience from my rupture, though the entire distance from Jalapa was made on horseback.
May 9. I left Perote this morning with Colonel Clarke at seven A.M., and arrived at San Antonio, a distance of seven miles, about eleven. A slight halt was made three miles from Perote. At one o’clock, after resting the mules, I proceeded with the train to Tepe Ahualco, which I reached after a distance of nine miles. Here I found the engineer company, and Captain Lee and Lieutenant Tower of the engineers. Captain Lee, unfortunately, was suffering from chills and fever.
May 10. The brigade of Colonel Garland, with General Worth and staff, left Tepe Ahualco (a very mean village, with bad water) at eight o’clock, and after a march of ten miles through the plain reached the hacienda of Vireyes, where we encamped for the night. This hacienda, like most of the haciendas of the country, was a good substantial building on the four sides of a square, and arranged with reference to the defense of the interior space. The peons lived in mean habitations of mud and trellis-work, not equal to the dwellings of swine in New England.
May 11. The march commenced at seven A.M., and after two halts,—one of about half an hour at Byzantium, distant eight miles, a village having its cathedral, one or two stores with pulque for sale, and pretty good houses for the peons; one of about two hours at Ojo de Agua, distant ten miles, a village not so considerable as the former, but noted for its clear water gushing in quite a large stream from the roadside,—we reached the hacienda Santa Annaced as a violent windstorm came on. Large stacks of barley straw in front of the hacienda afforded sustenance for many domestic animals. As we approached the village of Byzantium, a gently ascending and somewhat considerable hill on the left, cultivated to its very top with the maguey plant, and the green grass of the flowing stream at the base relieved the dryness of the plain, and afforded a most pleasing prospect. The road on the 10th and 11th was level; and for the most part good. Distance this day, about twelve miles.
May 12. The march commenced at six A.M., the rear brigade of Colonel Clarke joining the advance brigade of Colonel Garland in its first movement, its encampment having been only two miles in rear. After proceeding some miles we entered Nopalucan, a considerable town of three churches, several fondas, and some substantial houses. The padre furnished the general and his officers an entertainment of spirits and cakes. The best people had shut up their houses and left the place. Before approaching Nopalucan, the road for some two miles passes through a highly cultivated tract of country, with some dozen haciendas on the right and left. An elevation on entering this tract affords a very charming prospect.