“We stood over,” writes Sir James Ross, “toward Northeast Cape until we came in with the edge of a pack, too dense for us to penetrate, lying between us and Leopold Island, about fourteen miles broad; we therefore coasted the north shore of Barrow Strait, to seek a harbour further to the westward, and to examine the numerous inlets of that shore. Maxwell Bay, and several smaller indentations, were thoroughly explored, and, although we got near the entrance of Wellington Channel, the firm barrier of ice which stretched across it, and which had not broken away this season, convinced us all was impracticable in that direction. We now stood to the southwest to seek for a harbour near Cape Rennell, but found a heavy body of ice extending from the west of Cornwallis Island. Coasting along the pack during stormy and foggy weather, we had difficulty in keeping the ships free during the nights, for I believe so great a quantity of ice was never before seen in Barrow Strait at this period of the season.”
By the 11th of September, the ships found winter quarters in the harbour of Port Leopold, and almost immediately the ice pack closed in and formed a complete barrier for the remainder of the winter. Various exploring and surveying journeys were undertaken during this winter and the coast carefully examined in all directions, but no trace of Franklin or his ships was discovered.
The crew caught in traps a number of white foxes, and knowing how far these animals will roam in search of food, the men clasped round the animals’ necks copper collars, on which were written the position of the ships and depots of provisions, and the creatures were set at liberty in the hope they would be caught by some of the ill-fated party.
During April and May, Captain Ross, accompanied by Lieutenant M’Clintock and a party of twelve men, carefully explored the coast-line of the northern and western coast of Boothia Peninsula.
“The examination of the coast,” writes Captain Ross, “was pursued until the fifth of June, when, having consumed more than half our provisions, and the strength of the party being much reduced, I was reluctantly compelled to abandon further operations, as it was, moreover, necessary to give the men a day of rest. But that the time might not be wholly lost, I proceeded with two hands to the extreme south point in sight from our encampment, distant about eight or nine miles.”
During the absence of Captain Ross, other parties had explored the vicinity of Cape Hind, and another along the western shore. This last party under Lieutenant Robinson reached as far as Cresswell Bay, a few miles to the southward of Fury Beach. He found the house in which Sir John Ross had wintered in 1832-1833, with a quantity of stores and provisions of the Fury, that had been there since 1827, and were in excellent state of preservation.
Preparations were now made for leaving Port Leopold, Captain Ross’s object being to examine Wellington Channel and, if feasible, to penetrate as far as Melville Island. To this end it was necessary to set to work with ice-saws and cut a channel of over two miles that the ships might be freed. This tedious work was accomplished by the last of August, but before leaving, a shelter was built on land, twelve months’ provisions, a steam-launch, belonging to the Investigator, and such other stores being left behind as would be found welcome to Sir John Franklin’s party should they reach that spot. Hardly had the ships got under way when a strong wind brought the ice down on them, and they were soon beset.
For some days it seemed as if the ships were hard fast for a dreary winter, but the wind shifted to the westward, the whole body of ice being driven to the eastward, and in the centre of a field of ice more than fifty miles in circumference, the ships were carried along the southern shore of Lancaster Sound. After passing its entrance, they drifted along the western shore of Baffin Bay until abreast of Pond Bay, when, with a suddenness that was all but miraculous, the field broke into innumerable fragments, and the ships were freed.
“At once all sail was set, warps were run out from all quarters, to assist the ship through the heavy floes, and at last the Investigator and Enterprise found themselves in open water.”
“It is impossible,” writes Ross, “to convey any idea of the sensation we experienced when we found ourselves once more at liberty; many a heart poured forth its praises and thanksgivings to Almighty God for this unlooked-for deliverance.