Where there are a number of hives, instead of a separate stand for each, they may be placed more economically, and perhaps safely, on what I term a hive-range, of any required length. The range consists simply of a couple of rails, about an inch thick, and four inches in depth, nailed to the top outer edge of a series of posts, fixed firmly in or on the ground, about eighteen inches high. The space between the rails may be about twelve inches, measured withinside. The most suitable hive-board for a range is that shown at [page 43]. The cross bars on its underneath side must be so cut in point of length, as to fall within the two rails, where they are held; whilst what remains of the width of the board lodges upon them, with a convenient projection before and behind. Nor does it matter whether the hive-boards are made square or round. A range of this kind occupies very little space, and presents few facilities for the incursions of insects or other annoyers of bees. The hives ought to have a good interval between each; but it is an advantage that on this plan they can be moved, by sliding the boards to the right or left, if circumstances call for it. A range on the same principle might readily be made ornamentally, in part or wholly of iron, standing on feet, moveable anywhere, and setting vermin at defiance.
To the intelligent reader it is unnecessary again to repeat, that bee-stocks ought always to be raised sufficiently from the ground to protect them, not only from the baneful effects of damp, but from the incursions of vermin, &c. But inattention on this point is sometimes met with so gross, that we cannot forbear giving place to the preceding engraving, from a drawing made on the spot in Dorsetshire, illustrating the treatment to which the poor bees may be sometimes subjected by indifference or deplorable ignorance.
WOODEN BOX HIVES.
As far as we have proceeded, our attention has been directed principally to Straw hives. Those, however, of Wood have in modern times come pretty generally into use, when cost is not an object, as being more durable, less liable to harbour vermin, and better adapted, from their square form, for a convenient arrangement of the combs, besides admitting of glass windows.
As regards the plainer kind of boxes, either intended for use on the swarming system, or on that where deprivation is practised, I adhere to the opinion expressed as to straw hives, and prefer those constructed broad and shallow to such as are high and narrow. They may be made of the lighter and more porous kinds of deal, some preferring red cedar; but whichever is made use of, it should be thoroughly seasoned, and well put together; observing that the grain of the wood always runs in the horizontal direction, when its tendency to expansion or contraction is rendered of no importance. Conflicting opinions prevail as to the best size for bee-boxes; but, like almost everything else where these insects are concerned, something must be left dependent on circumstances and locality, as well as the intended mode of working them. A fair average size for a plain box is eleven and a half inches square, by eight inches deep, withinside; or, perhaps better, twelve by seven or seven and a half inches, clear; the thickness of wood throughout being not less than an inch, or, if exposed, more than this. The cover of the box should have a small projection on all sides, for better appearance, and to afford convenience for lifting. On the top a two- or three-inch hole may be cut in the centre, for the purposes of supering, of feeding, or ventilation. Instead, however, of one central hole, some persons like to have three smaller ones, cut triangularly; affording convenience for the use of a single large, or three small glasses. It is best to leave the roof of the box, withinside, unplaned, as the bees have sometimes a difficulty in making the first combs adhere to too smooth a surface. A window may be placed at the back, and another at one side, about four inches high, and six wide. The glass should be thick, and secured by putty; but it must not fit too tightly, or it is apt to crack from the swelling of the wood. There are various ways of covering the windows, but the best is, perhaps, by a sliding shutter of zinc. Round the window there must be a projecting moulding, mitred at the corners. On one side the piece of moulding is moveable, and to the back of this is screwed a plate of sheet zinc. This passes into a rabbet to receive it, cut, on the remaining three sides, at the back of the lower edge of the moulding. Where uniformity of appearance is studied, blank windows may be made opposite to the real ones.[K] No entrance-way should be cut in the box, as this more properly belongs to the floor-board.
[K] As regards windows, they are always useful to inspect a hive, but should, as a rule, be kept darkened. At the same time there is no doubt that bees will work exposed to the light, when the option of darkness is not allowed them. A friend put a swarm into a unicomb hive, made without shutters on each side, and exposed to the full glare of light at a window, which I frequently inspected. The bees filled the hive in a short time, paying apparently no attention to the eyes often observing their operations. It is to be remarked, however, that whether bees are in light or darkness, the one or the other must be continuous, as alternations disturb and alarm them. We shall hereafter give a design for an experimental Light Hive.
A reference to the engraving will show a box thus made, with its sliding shutter. It ought to be painted a sufficient time before use, or the smell is offensive to the bees; indeed, I have known a swarm forsake a box in consequence. I may observe, however, that some persons prefer boxes, when in a house, to be unpainted. They are always best placed under some kind of cover, as protection from wet and a hot sun is necessary to prevent warping and splitting, and not unfrequently the melting of the combs. Some German bee-keepers have recommended box-hives made long from back to front, and narrow from side to side.