PLATE 42.
(Fig. 1): Male costume of the reign of Henry VII., “a fair specimen of the general form of dress adopted by the gentlemen of the age.” It was difficult at this time to distinguish one sex by the dress from another. (From Royal MS., 19, C 8, A.D. 1496.) (Fig. 2): Costume of a gentleman of the Early Tudor period, with a close-fitting hat to which is affixed long pendant streamers of cloth. “This figure is remarkable for its simplicity, and may be received as the type of a gentleman unspoiled by the foppery of extravagance.” (From Harl. MS. No. 4,425, A.D. 1479) one of the last of the priceless Illuminated MSS., and one of the chief authorities for the costume of the earlier part of this reign. (Fig. 3): Flat cap, which was the general head-dress of men in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Edward VI. (Fig. 4): Hat with plumes of feathers of the time of Henry VII. From the same MSS. as (Fig. 2.) (Fig. 5): Hat of the Yeoman of the Guard, with three plumes, from a contemporary picture. (Fig. 6): Hat of the time of Elizabeth, from a picture of her funeral. (Figs. 7 and 9): “Copotain” hats of the time of Elizabeth, from contemporary pictures. (Fig. 8): Another common form of hat of the time of Elizabeth. (Figs. 10 and 11): “Sabbatons,” or shoes with very broad toes, puffed and slashed, in fashion in the reign of 131 Henry VIII. They were generally made of black velvet or leather with silk in the slashings. (From contemporary sources.) (Fig. 12): Ordinary costume of the middle classes such as was worn by the citizens and merchants of London. (From Heywood’s “Parable of the Spider and the Fly,” 1556 A.D.) (Fig. 13): Costume of a nobleman of the reign of Elizabeth. He wears an immense ruff, “a peascod-bellied doublet,” quilted or stuffed and covered with slashes. He also has Venetian breeches, slashed like the doublet, stockings of fine black yarn, and shoes of white leather. (From a portrait of the reign of Elizabeth.) (Fig. 14): Wide, stuffed breeches, called “bombasted” trunk hose, worn about 1575 A.D. (From a woodcut in “The Book of Falconrie.”) (Figs. 15, 16, and 17): Different styles of beards worn in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Elizabeth. “Each class of the community trimmed their beards after a fashion indicative of their pursuits.” (Fig. 15): “Spade” beard of a soldier. (Fig. 16): “Stiletto” beard of a soldier. (Fig. 17): “Great round beard.” (All from contemporary engravings.)
[FEMALE COSTUMES.]
Henry VII.
The chief article of attire in female costume was the robe, which continued to be short waisted, and was worn with sleeves either of the variety now known as Bishop’s sleeves or wide and confined at intervals from the elbow to the wrist. The waist was small, and the neck was cut square. Stomachers, belts and buckles, or girdles with a long pendant in front were also worn. A warm cloth hood was worn folded back from the face over the head in thick pleats behind, the edges being embroidered (Fig. 1) with gold or coloured threads. Caps and cauls of gold net from beneath which, in the case of unmarried ladies, the hair hung loose down the back, and various other forms of head-dresses were generally in use. The horned head-dress and the steeple cap disappeared, but the most striking novelty for the head was the pediment or pyramidal-shaped hood worn perfectly white. (Fig. 4.) The stiffness of this article is a characteristic feature of the costumes worn by aged ladies, who frequently ended their lives in a convent, or, at any rate, frequently adopted the conventual form of dress in their widowhood. Very numerous examples of this head-dress exist in effigies and brasses, the bands being frequently edged with pearls and ornamented with precious stones. It continued in use for about fifty years.
Henry VIII.
No great changes took place in female costume during this reign, but there were considerable modifications in the forms of head-dresses. We have in existence the portraits (painted by Holbein) of the six wives of this fickle monarch, and they give us a good idea of the fashions of women of high degree during his reign of thirty-eight years.
The new articles worn were the habit-shirt or “partlet” and the waistcoat. The former sometimes had sleeves, and was made of rich materials. The waistcoat was similar to that of the men.