Border—Wood Anemones.
South Bed—Asters, 2 feet—September, October.
Border—Auricula, 8 inches—May.
A mass of one kind and colour is more effective than a mixed bed. The beginner will find that the percentage of success is greater in growing a large number of one kind, all requiring the same conditions of soil, moisture and sunlight, than in trying to force plants of widely different habits to grow under the same conditions. Hardy perennials, however, not many of which deserve an entire bed, do very well with several varieties in the same long bed or border, and may be so grouped as to give a succession of bloom throughout the season. A raised bed of Peonies interspersed with the new, large-blooming Phlox and bordered with Japan Lilies will give a succession of flowers from May to October; or a long bed of Hollyhocks, or Hibiscus with a row of large-flowered Phlox in front and edged with dwarf Phlox Drummondii will give months of lovely bloom. This last combination also makes a serviceable screen between the vegetable garden and the lawn, or to hide a rear fence.
In arranging parti-coloured beds of flowers, due attention must be paid to the harmonising of tints. Do not combine magenta and scarlet, or purple and blue. Separate them by the interposition of white—the most valuable colour in the garden, as it not only harmonises all colours but wonderfully enhances their brilliancy. White with scarlet, with blue, or with yellow is always good. Lavender and heliotrope are lovely with nearly all shades of scarlet, rose and pink. Blue flowers planted in the rear of the garden increase its apparent size, while white, bright yellow and scarlet, by bringing the background nearer, decrease it. Monkshood and the tall blue Larkspur are excellent for rear beds.
The accompanying diagrams will be of assistance in planning the garden—not so much in supplying plans to be followed literally as in suggesting other plans and variations, while giving practical information as to number of plants required, their distance apart and the like. Soil and other details will be treated elsewhere.
In planning a shrubbery (see Plate [II].) it is neither necessary nor desirable to use boards or other curbing for the beds, but the turf should be kept neatly trimmed and cut. A plot 60 by 40 feet or more, inclosing a considerable area of turf, gives room for rustic seats, a stationary hammock, and a tree or two. The circle in the border greatly increases the accommodation for plants and furnishes an ideal spot for Lilies. The lily-pond in the centre will be discussed at length in the chapter devoted to aquatic plants.
The rather complicated design in Plate [III]. is intended for a rose-garden or for foliage-beds on a large lawn. It is not at all difficult to construct, and a little practice with paper and pencil will remove any apparent obstacle. If you will draw, on a scale of one inch to a foot with a compass a succession of circles of six, eight and a half, twelve and a half, fifteen and nineteen inches, respectively, the foundation of the plan will be laid. Now, divide the fourth circle into fifths and draw a half circle 4½ by 14 feet or inches on the circle of each fifth by placing the point of the compass midway between the fourth and third circle. This will leave a crescent-shaped bed. Mark off from each side of these half circles or crescents, on the space between the third and fourth circle, two and one-half feet for paths. Making the lines parallel with the crescents, the remaining spaces will form triangular beds, that for convenience may be called the third or outer row of beds.
KEY TO HARDY BORDER. PLATE II.