The Flower Garden

by Ida D. Bennett

	Name of Plant.	Color.	Height.		Season of Bloom.
			Feet,	Inches.
1.	Hypericum	Yellow	1	6	All summer.
2.	Deutzia Gracilis	White	1	8	May, June.
3.	Lychnis Roseum	Pink	1	8	All summer.
4.	Spiræa Filipendula	White	1	0	May, June.
5.	Platycodon	Blue	2	0	All summer.
6.	Anemone Whirlwind	White	3	0	September, October.
7.	Spiræa Anthony Waterer	Crimson	2 to 4	0	May, sometimes all summer.
8.	White Foxglove	White	3	0	All summer.
9.	Scarlet Lychnis	Scarlet	3	0	All summer.
10.	White Foxglove	White	3	0	All summer.
11.	Lychnis Splendens	Red	3	0	June, July.
12.	White Veronica	White	2	0	August, September.
13.	Blue Veronica	Blue	2	0	July, August.
14.	Spiræa Van Houttei	White	3	0	May, June.
15.	Monkshood Fischeri	Pale Blue	4	0	September, October.
16.	Hollyhocks in Var.		4 to 5	0	Summer, fall.
17.	Monkshood, Uncinatum	Dark Blue	4	0	June, August.
18.	Bocconia	Cream	5 to 6	0	July, August.
1. Tall Shrubs. 2. Low Shrubs. 3. Herbaceous Pereum.
x x Hardy Lilies. —— — Edging Plants.

Now if radiating lines be drawn from the corners of the crescents to the centre of the plan the point where they cross the third circle will be the upper corners of the first row of beds—the lower corners being formed by the point where the radii from the centre and left corners of the crescents cross the second circle; the third and second circles forming the upper and lower sides; the ends being formed by curved lines drawn from the upper to the lower corners. Or, having completed the row of five crescents and five triangular beds, mark off with pole or ruler radiating lines from the corners and centre of each crescent to the centre of plan; the point where these radii from the circle of crescents cross the third circle will be the upper corner of the first row of beds; the lower corners being formed by the radii from the centre and left-hand corner of crescents; the ends being formed by curved concave lines from upper to lower corner—the intervening spaces forming paths.

For Laying Out the Beds

Use a long pole with a sharp stake passed through a hole at one end and fastened with a nail driven through it horizontally, so that it can turn easily, with a number of holes for pegs at the required distances—six, eight and one-half, twelve and one-half, fifteen and nineteen feet. Drive the movable stake firmly into the ground, and do not remove until the work is finished. Slip the sharp marking peg into the hole, which it should fit closely, and mark out the circles. For the half circles, or crescents, a nine-foot stick laid straight across the edge of fourth circle will give an approximate fifth, the loss in the curve about equalling the fractional loss caused by multiplying by three alone. Drive a peg with a stick or string attached into the path a foot inside the third line and mark the circles on it; mark the paths by lengthening the stick or string two and a half feet and drawing sections of circles on each side of the half circles from the fourth to the fifth circles. Now bring the end of the long pole to the left corner of half circle and mark the radiating lines and half lines to the centre, and mark off the first row of beds as you did on paper. In this way almost any form of flowerbed may be laid out. The following diagrams for foliage-beds on the lawn will be helpful.

For a Twelve-foot Foliage-bed

One Ricinus in centre; three Ricini four feet from first, an equal distance apart—or about eight feet. Alternate with these three clumps of tall-growing Cannas. Surround with a row of scarlet Salvias, set one foot from edge of bed and twenty inches apart. Edge with Little Gem Sweet Alyssum.

PLATE III.
Plan for Rose-garden and Foliage-bed.

Another Twelve-foot Bed

One Ricinus in centre, surrounded at three feet distance by six of the largest sized Caladiums three feet apart. The third row, three feet outside, to be composed of low-growing Cannas—Queen Charlotte, Chicago, Florence Vaughan, or Papa—eighteen inches apart. Edge with dwarf Nasturtiums.